Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Rush Bowers, or perhaps Lynn Wheeler
Page Views: 4,619 total · 26/month
Shared By: Louis Arevalo on Nov 5, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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This is a finger dihedral broken up with occasional hands and face holds. Jamming, liebacking, and stemming make for fun, physical climbing.


Cams up to a #3 camalot and doubles in the tcu range. New big fat PUSSY bolt added near the top not by FA.


Louis Arevalo
Louis Arevalo  
Rumor has it the FA hammered an old nut tool into the crack and used it as an anchor to lower off of. It can still be seen about 6 feet above the bolt anchors.

Someone has added a PUSSY bolt about 8 feet below the anchor. This used to be the best part of the route making you actually think about the remaining 10 feet of climbing from GOOD gear to the end. Nov 7, 2004
PUSSY BOLT..... Who put that in? Next time Im there I think I'll chop it. If someone beats me to it then all the better. Nov 8, 2004
"Ancors from Hell" was established by the late lynn wheeler and named as a result of the "nut tool driven into seam belay". Jan 22, 2005
Ben Folsom
Ben Folsom  
Yeah, that bolt is super lame. The great thing about that route was getting to where the crack runs out and stemming and face climbing to the anchors. The #2 camalot you get is only about 15 feet from the chains and it's bomber. It must have shown up in the last few years, because the last time I did that route was probably two years ago and it was not there then. Feb 1, 2005
John Stoddard
John Stoddard  
Nice, varied route with good stances to place gear. I'm not sure why it gets a lesser quality rating, I thought it was great. Yeah, the bolt's pretty lame. It only gains you maybe five feet from a bomber cam placement, over a clean fall at the end of the pitch. I did clip it though ;-). May 2, 2005
Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT
Josh Ewing   Bluff, UT
Wow. Wouldn't it be great if someone could go up there, chop that bolt, scar the rock and pay homage to the balls of the guy who did the first ascent?

I agree that the bolt is poorly placed. It's only 2.5 feet above a good yellow alien placement. If you're going to put in a bolt, make sure it's in a reasonable place.

But come one. Are we really going to scar the route further by wasting someone's well-intentioned effort to make the route safer? Nov 8, 2005
redlands, ca
veritus   redlands, ca
hell is paved with good intentions. With a decent patchjob the rock won't look scarred. The cam placement is bomber and the fall is pretty clean. Man up and climb it without the bolt. Jul 26, 2007
Hi Swell dwellers,
It was my understanding that when Dave Anderson and Lynn Wheeler climbed this, they found no anchors and their drill bit was dull and shot. They ended up pounding in a nut tool above where the present anchors presently apparently are and found no others. They called the route AFH as they were truly gripped rapping down. In a letter from Kent, perhaps he or friends climbed this previously and those anchors were even worse and whatever might have become of them.
I don't know who placed the later lower bolts. Nov 2, 2007
Abandoned User
Abandoned User  
Bolt is still there. FYI. Nov 2, 2008
Brendan N
Salt Lake City, Utah
Brendan N   Salt Lake City, Utah
great, varied climbing.

bolt is not a problem in my eyes Mar 23, 2011