Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: Dave Anderson
Page Views: 1,966 total · 12/month
Shared By: Josh Ewing on Sep 5, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is an excellent, varried route with some difficult finger crack jamming. It's often overlooked despite its proximity to classics, such as Rabid Muslim.

Start with ackward moves pulling into a flare with a finger crack in the back. Chimney/jam up the flare to its end and jam a thin finger crack through a small rough, with feet. Hand jam up small left-facing corner to a stance below the final fingers splitter. Bust up this finger crack with hard moves separated by a few marginal stances.

You can lead/rap this route with one 70 meter rope. It's really close though so watch the ends. The climb is probably 37 meters long, but with rope stretch, you're good.

Location

About 100 yards left of Rabid Muslim and Lite Not Solid. Look for a finger-crack flare that's about 15 feet right of a large, broken right facing corner. The anchors are hard to see way up on the face at the end of the splitter finger crack.

Protection

Take a ton of cams in the 1-1.5 inch size (e.g. .5 camalots, orange metolious, #1 and #1.5 friends). Take a few small TCUs and a few hand sized pieces, up to a #4 friend (for the middle section).

Photos