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Routes in Pine Canyon

Anchors From Hell T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burgerdier General T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
KRGA T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lite Not Solid T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mrs. Renfro's Revenge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Bushmills T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pickles and Milk T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Potluck T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rabid Muslim T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 5.11 techy sport climb S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown 5.7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 5.8+ T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey Biscuits T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: Dave Anderson
Page Views: 1,400 total, 11/month
Shared By: Josh Ewing on Sep 5, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This is an excellent, varried route with some difficult finger crack jamming. It's often overlooked despite its proximity to classics, such as Rabid Muslim.

Start with ackward moves pulling into a flare with a finger crack in the back. Chimney/jam up the flare to its end and jam a thin finger crack through a small rough, with feet. Hand jam up small left-facing corner to a stance below the final fingers splitter. Bust up this finger crack with hard moves separated by a few marginal stances.

You can lead/rap this route with one 70 meter rope. It's really close though so watch the ends. The climb is probably 37 meters long, but with rope stretch, you're good.

Location

About 100 yards left of Rabid Muslim and Lite Not Solid. Look for a finger-crack flare that's about 15 feet right of a large, broken right facing corner. The anchors are hard to see way up on the face at the end of the splitter finger crack.

Protection

Take a ton of cams in the 1-1.5 inch size (e.g. .5 camalots, orange metolious, #1 and #1.5 friends). Take a few small TCUs and a few hand sized pieces, up to a #4 friend (for the middle section).

Photos

aschmidt  
 
I had to look up the Food Fighters to learn more about all of Dave's great route names in the Swell: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Food_…. I love these gems even more now.



An ample rack would include: 4 .4's, 5 .5's, 4 .75's, 2 ea #1 and #2 and 1 #3 Camalots. Nov 11, 2014
Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT
 
Josh Ewing   Bluff, UT
 
Daren...just did this again last weekend, and you can definitely do it with a 70. And you're probably right about the grade. Probably deserves 5.11+. I wouldn't give it 12-, especially by Swell standards, but it's stiff for 5.11. Nov 19, 2007
Someone should change the name to the one James wrote about. Plus this route is 135' long. An 80 meter rope just barely reaches. The grade is harder than the original one in Eric's guidebook, since Dave had it extended 25' more feet after eric's guide came out. Oct 27, 2007
The unique thing about all of these route names are their tie in with the then "Foodfighter series" that was the latest kid rage. Dave Anderson who did the FA of most or all of these would buy another Foodfighter for his kids for the price of dragging them to the base of the cliff or have one for his arrival back home....so,
it is Burgerdier General or Private Pizza or Mean Weener, or Short Stack or BBQ Bomber, etc spelled that way for a reason. Sorry Josh, it is just not Brigadier General, though you have the correct spelling! Glad you liked the routes! Sep 30, 2007