All Locations > Utah > S Central Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swel… > Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Wisdom Tooth

Cryptogramic Forest

Name: Cryptogramic Forest
Rating: 3.5

5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British

Routes in Wisdom Tooth

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cryptogramic Forest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Poor Oral Hygiene T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
	Toothache T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

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Type:	Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
GPS:	39.09163, -110.67307
FA:	P1 Mike Friedrichs, George Jamison 1990. P2 Dave Medara, John Merriam 1996.
Page Views:	2,572 total · 18/month
Shared By:	Andrew Gram on Apr 27, 2014
Admins:	Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Wingate doesn't get much better than on this beautiful tower.

P1 - Climb a long and sustained crack through just about every size to a big belay ledge. It starts thin and widens as it goes with the occasional chimneyish pod. 165', 5.11

P2 - Climb a sandy wide crack in a dihedral to a ledge system. Follow the ledge system clear around to the other side of the tower and head up the first reasonable weakness to the summit. 75', 5.9+

Location

Approach as for the Lightbulb. After working your way through some cliff bands onto the bench the Lightbulb is on, turn right and head up into the side canyon. You can see the tower from the road easily enough.

Protection

Bring pretty much everything from small cams to big pieces. The first pitch is long. 4-5 sets from .5-3 camalots with a few smaller pieces down to green alien and a single set of big cams.