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Cryptogramic Forest

5.11, Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 2 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3.5 from 14 votes
FA: P1 Mike Friedrichs, George Jamison 1990. P2 Dave Medara, John Merriam 1996.
Utah > S Central Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swel… > Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Wisdom Tooth

Description

Wingate doesn't get much better than on this beautiful tower.

P1 - Climb a long and sustained crack through just about every size to a big belay ledge. It starts thin and widens as it goes with the occasional chimneyish pod. 165', 5.11

P2 - Climb a sandy wide crack in a dihedral to a ledge system. Follow the ledge system clear around to the other side of the tower and head up the first reasonable weakness to the summit. 75', 5.9+

Location

Approach as for the Lightbulb. After working your way through some cliff bands onto the bench the Lightbulb is on, turn right and head up into the side canyon. You can see the tower from the road easily enough.

Protection

Bring pretty much everything from small cams to big pieces. The first pitch is long. 4-5 sets from .5-3 camalots with a few smaller pieces down to green alien and a single set of big cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Wisdom Tooth as seen from Buckhorn Draw
[Hide Photo] The Wisdom Tooth as seen from Buckhorn Draw
The rap station located on the top of Pitch 1 (two 70s reach the bottom from the top of the tower)
[Hide Photo] The rap station located on the top of Pitch 1 (two 70s reach the bottom from the top of the tower)
The lower part of the second pitch that leads to the wrap-around ledge
[Hide Photo] The lower part of the second pitch that leads to the wrap-around ledge
A prince of a line
[Hide Photo] A prince of a line
First pitch of Cryptogramic Forest
[Hide Photo] First pitch of Cryptogramic Forest
Wisdom Tooth on approach
[Hide Photo] Wisdom Tooth on approach

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Cole Bradburn
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Awesome tower! First pitch is on some great rock and gets your through all the sizes from 1" to 4" and it even has a classic tower climbing ending. The second pitch is short and sandy but adds a bit of that "tower climbing" that you don't get on the first pitch. We broke the second pitch into two pitches because of rope drag. After we got onto the big ledge system right before the 10 foot summit block we belayed here and then scrambled to the top.

Replaced the webbing on both anchors 4/22/17 Apr 24, 2017
Broseph L
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Can anyone tell me, what is the that line in the big corner??? Sep 25, 2017
Neil Kauffman
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] 2x .4, 3x .5-#3, no larger cams really necessary.
Rapping the first pitch is about 40m. To make it go with one 70m rope: knot block the rap at 40m and setup a rope pull with runners. Or just bring 5x of all cams, wide gear, and two ropes, this is an adventure after all! Mar 22, 2019