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Routes in Vertical Smile Wall

BBQ Bomber T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bell Bottom Blues T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ladies of the 80's T C2+
Street Legal T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown Aid route T A2
Vertical Smile T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Dave Anderson
Page Views: 167 total · 1/month
Shared By: Josh Ewing on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Layback up a clean left facing corner (1.5 friends) to the roof. Stem out the roof and pull tricky moves into ofwidth crack above the roof. Climb up the now right facing corn above to another roof passed on the left and finish in the final corner with fingers (yellow TCU).

Rivals BBQ Bomber and Citizen Cane for best 5.11 in the Swell. Rarely climbed, despite its proximity to the road.

Location

Left of the aid lines (e.g. Vertical Smile). Find this route and Street Legal in a cool alcove with a huge leaning block on the right. Park as for Private Pizza and traverse up and left to the route.

Protection

Good amount of 1.5 friends, with quite a few thin hands pieces and cups pieces. At least one wide piece is nice above the crux (#5 friend). New rap bolts make for a smooth double rope rap. couple of OW pieces are nice

Photos

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Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
a #4 camalot or #4 friend size will fit in the wide section after the crux. Bring one 0.3 camalot or green alien sized cam for the last 10 ft. Spencers rack is pretty on point. Oct 9, 2017
This is an excellent route. I used two bd 0.5 and two 0.75 for the bottom corner, then a bd 0.5, a 1 and a 2 to protect the section under the roof. After that, a bd 0.5, a bd 3 and a bd 4 to the anchors. I may be missing a piece somewhere and it may be prudent to take more for the bottom corner. It is good to have lots of 0.5s and a few 0.75s on this route. Oct 2, 2017
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
You can easily dump all your .75's in the bottom corner before the first roof, but make sure you have at least one .75, 1, and .5 cam for the final corner. This thing is a full on Indian creek style pitch, solid 35m. I found the pulling the first roof and switching to ow to be the crux. Wanted to trundle the big loose block above first roof but didn't. Lots of rests, but long. Seemed like Everytime you transitioned from one corner to the next one loose choss was waiting for you.
Rack: three .4s, four .5s, five .75s, four 1s, three 2s, two 3s, one 4 camalot. Mar 22, 2015
This route is more like 115 feet long, a 70m rope is adequate to lower and TR. Bring a lot of .5 and .75 C4s; 5 of each wouldn't be excessive. A new #4 C4 is big enough for the wide section. Beware of the teetering block on the ledge right above this wide section. Long slings are useful as well.

May 20, 2013
I am glad it got posted, too. To clear the question mark on the FA info, yes it was most definitely first climbed by the late great Dave Anderson, the original founder of hard crack climbs in the Swell. All the "Food Fighter" series climbs (by Dave) throughout the Swell seem pretty classic and worthy....BBQ Bomber, Mean Weaner, Short Stack, Private Pizza, Burgerdier General, etc! Jun 5, 2008
Finally did this route last weekend. It is a nice, long pitch with lots of variety. May 27, 2008
Thanks for adding this. I haven't climbed this route totally free and therefore did not want to post it, I'm glad it got posted. Nov 19, 2007