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Shangri La Rock Climbing
Routes in Shangri La
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69th T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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72 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Arete a go-go S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bahala Na T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Being Boiled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Birdseed, Bourbon, and Bolts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Bourbonic S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Candy for Breakfast, Candy for Lunch, Breakfast for Dinner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cannibalistic Tendencies T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Deep In Shangri La T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Flaky Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gremlin Special T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Headhunter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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High Little Thing S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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High-Hanging Fruit Snacks T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Holidays in the Sun S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Lost Horizon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Maneater T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Marriage of Convenience T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Muli Made T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Murut T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Not For The Faint Hearted S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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One for the Pot S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Portal To The Infinite S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Prisoners of the Sun T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Queen of Shangri La, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Replete With Gremlins T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Rose Hip Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rose Hip Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rose Hip Face S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scorpion S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shambala T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Shangorilla, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shantaram S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Short Forever, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sigurd S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sine Wave S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Something on the Side T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Steps To Enlightenment S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Stolen Crown T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sumpit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sunday Roast S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Thin Red Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Totally Topless S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Trials & Tribulations of Margaret Hastings, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Utopian Lamasery S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Vanishing Half S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Elevation: | 10,200 ft | 3,109 m |
| GPS: |
37.77957, -111.90183 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 29,081 total · 292/month | |
| Shared By: | Roy Suggett on May 17, 2018 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Description
This crag is now the most northerly of the Jungle's areas. Though less than four miles from the Lower Jungle parking spot, it does drive slow. The approach is an easy 10 minute walk and oh so worth your efforts! These are not only the tallest walls in the Jungle but are composed of the best rock as of yet found in the area. The cracks here are exceptional!
There are numerous multi-pitch possibilities in both trad and sport climbing. Far right and east at the short end of the cliff line there is also some excellent bouldering to be found. The entire cliff band faces mostly south and warms rapidly, but large aspens provide shade for dogs and belayers. For warm days, some towers and pillars with north facing lines provide plenty of shade. There is also the north south running canyon known as Gremlin Gulch (named after the plane that crashed in Shagri La killing 21 and only Margaret Hastings and two others survived). This canyon offers many possibilities and provides shade most of the day. See the approach map for details and pictures below.
The views from the trees look out over amazing scenery and will be often photographed. I expect some rapid development here due to the quality and quantity of potential routes.
Getting There
Set your odometer at the Lower Jungles parking area. Drive up and north for just a tad over 3 miles. Here there is a left turn into a very large meadow. Take the gravel double track left and west until you reach a a short rail fence. Follow a right split around the north end of this fence and then follow the double track that hugs the interface between forest and meadow. Avoid access issues by NOT driving on meadow habitat! On your right, a meadow drainage will begin to develop, when the road meets said drainage, and you see an awesome camp site with a ring, stumps and level tent spots, park. From the main road to your parking spot is about 0.7 miles.
Then hike following cairns and a "cut" trail left of the rocky drainage until the trail cuts down at a dead fall and into a dry stream and west to a cairn on the right bank where an obvious trail leads into the trees. Here, with a sharp eye, you will see on the right heading up hill through the trees the approach trail to set up new lines or to continue to the down chute, aka, Gremlin Gulch. This gets you to shady climbs but may be easier to walk the main trail. Skipping that, you will soon emerge on a flat and stable talus field. Prior to crossing a "rock bridge" note there are three + trails (see approach trail map).. Far right gets you to the far right of Shangri La and the shorter walls. Middle trail leads you to the medium high walls about a 1/3 of the way in on the wall. Or best option, follow the main trail, well trodden and well cairn-ed trail that leads to the wall about 3/8th of the way in and then go right or left. Follow these cairns marking the trail right or left to your climb. An easy 10 minute hike at best. See the Jungle cover page for a road map/topo of the area. Click the map title to get the beta. There is only "1" route still red tagged here, the other lines (33+,though not all yet published) are good to go and worthy. (Edit- The damn cows did a number on the trail this last summer and are back again this summer of 2020.. Watch for the right bank cairn to avoid getting lost on a cow trail to an old spring on your approach.)
Classic Climbing Routes at Shangri La
Sun & Shade
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Photos
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