Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Friedrichs 1991
Page Views: 4,306 total · 22/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Mar 21, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


46 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This discontinuous thin crack is located in the middle of the Dylan Wall. There is a three bolt anchor visible from below at about 80'. To the right is a long sustained crack in a left facing dihedral (Blood on the Tracks). There is a somewhat broken boulder directly behind the route. A pod at 8' takes a #3 Camalot. From there move up the thin crack with good rests to plug gear and ponder your next moves. There were no moves that felt 11c and the route is extremely well protected. Enjoyable from start to finish.

Protection

One each 1-3 Camalots, plenty of TCUs or Aliens. Slider nuts work well on this pitch but are not essential.

Photos

nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
A superb route, with great pro, great moves, and great rests. Feb 23, 2006
Brendan N
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Brendan N   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
tricky, balancy cruxes with good gear.

a quiver of small cams with extra gray and purple camalots Mar 23, 2011
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Didn't feel 11c. There are some hard moves on the route, but no more than three in a row before you get to a hero hold or nice rest (lots of rests!). #1-#2 camalots (1), #3 camalot (2), bunch of TCUs purple-yellow. Oct 6, 2013
Ben Ricketts
Salt Lake City, UT
Ben Ricketts   Salt Lake City, UT
Great route! has an awesome 5.10 finger crack with feet and rests to a couple of V2 boulder problems. And you can place high gear and be on top rope for both of these. Go for it! Oct 27, 2014