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Routes in Bottleneck Peak

Alaska Gold T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3
Tippin The Bottle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Zoomerang T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mike Pennings and Doug Hall
Page Views: 5,474 total · 31/month
Shared By: J. DuBois on Mar 27, 2004 with updates from Spencer Weiler
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Tippin the Bottle is located on the North face of Bottleneck Peak. 50' right of Woody's roofs, and 20' left of the Langdon Route. It follows a beautiful crack system straight up for three great pitches with a short, chossy 4th-class scramble to the summit.

Pitch 1: Climb a sandy handcrack aiming for splitter roof. Stem out past the wild thin-hands roof crack and pull into the "Banana Splitter" an arching finger-and-hand crack for 30'. Reach another roof and undercling/layback left, up into a crack system and belay below a weird inverted v-slot. Save a couple hand-size cams for this belay and you'll be happy.175' 5.11-

Pitch 2: The BIZZNESS! climb up through the v-slot, strenuous 5.10, then breathe deep and send the overhanging fingers in the corner above. Pass one great rest, into thin hands and a large belay ledge, with a cave just above. I can't say enough good things about this pitch, simply spectacular!!! 100' 5.11++

Pitch 3: Pull a weird thin move into the cave 10+,and figure out the offwidth/fistcrack roof out of it. Follow this crack with hands to a ledge, and climb a huge thin flake 5.8 towards some horrid loose shit. CAREFULLY stem around the loose blocks (5.9), marginal gear below (save a #3 or #4 Camalot for just below this section) and pull on to a large ledge PHEW! 125' 5.11- (note rap anchors here)

Now leave the rack and scramble gingerly up to the cool summit. There is an interesting summit register up there to check out. The raps are fairly straightforward: three double raps down from the top of pitch 3, toward the west, and down the Langdon route.

A great obscure tower route, well done by Pennings and the late Doug Hall.


There are no fixed anchors or gear on this route so keep that in mind for the rack.bring two sets of cams to 3 inches, and extra fingers, extra thin hands, and one or two 4 inch pieces.two sixty meter ropes to rappel.
Handies and Fingies,handies and fingies..... Oct 19, 2004
Jim Howe
Salt Lake city
Jim Howe   Salt Lake city
for extra "fingers" gear, think tips, I found tcus 1-2 and .3 camalots best for the crux pitch. #4 camalot was used only to protect the 5.8 flake, but #3 camalots seemed to always come in handy. I could'nt figure out the moves on the 5.10+ face and pulled through after flogging about there. Crux is pretty standard (but stout) desert fare but their are several puzzle problems scattered along the route, which makes it fun. Apr 16, 2007
John Steiger  
Yeah, that "weird thin" 5.10+ move to get into the cave on the third pitch can bite you; I came closer to pitchin' off there than any other move on the route. Rap bolts need replacing, some are pretty scary, and most of the webbing is looking pretty spent (as of 3/25/12). One of Utah's classics, IMO. Apr 28, 2012
Carlsbad CA
RAZORsharp   Carlsbad CA
2 70m ropes brings the raps down to 2. Or, if you opt out to do the last pitch, 1 rap with double 70m brings you to the ground... BARELY. tie knots, lots of loose stuff to knock off on the rap. Oct 21, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Overall this is a fantastic, physical route with unconventional sections that require some advanced desert free techniques.
Pitch 1- Pulling the roof and getting into the banana splitter is the crux of this pitch. Do some stretching as the stem is wide! The roof/banana will eat #1 camalots(like 3) before becoming diagonal and finger size. Belay about 30 feet below the V slot in a B rated belay alcove. 2 #1 camalots would be ideal for the belay, but you probably already jettisoned them all, so #2-#3 camalots are a good 2nd option.
Pitch 2- The V slot appears like a chimney from below, but liebacking is the ticket. The tips lieback corner(.3 camalots) is only about 20 feet before a bomber liedown ledge appears. I found the next 20 feet above this to be harder as the gear isn't quite as straightforward, but punching it up this section will lead you to a sweet low angle handcrack that leads to a A- belay ledge. 11+ is generous in my opinion, as the no-hands rest really eases things up. two #3 camalots for belay.
Pitch 3- Make sure you leave the belay with no less than 2 #3 cams and a single #4. By far the hardest move on the route is right off the belay in a blank corner. A green/red c3 is critical gear here. Somehow you have to get a hand-foot match over a roof with a single knuckle fingerlock as your only handhold and lunge up to a decent edge up and right. Falling and blowing your green c3 size piece will result in a 15 foot groundfall. Best have your shiz together for that move. I understand why people C0 it. This felt like 12a compared to pitch 2. The chimney/OW move above is best protected by a #3 camalot up high before birthing yourself out and around to the fist/hand crack above. The 5.8 flake above that is easy, but unprotected without a #5 camalot. Only maybe 15 feet. A #4 is nice to have at the base of the flake. The worst part of the route lies above this in severely bad rock, then a final OW move where either a 3 or 4 camalot is essential. Bolted anchor is just above this.
Rack: triples .3-#3 camalot with single #4 and a green c3 size piece. A fourth #3 camalot would make belay anchors easier.
Rap 1 anchor-at least 4 bolts, 2 of which are good, though with quite a bit of tat on them
Rap 2 anchor-bad. Only only good bolt and 2 ancients with a single old cordelette
Rap 3 anchor- 1 good bolt and 3 old ones. May 27, 2018

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