Elevation: 5,500 ft
GPS: 37.384, -111.849 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 96,250 total · 1,032/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Nov 29, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure - Sensitivity Details


The Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument has a varied topography that includes canyons and towers that lack crowds as well as water (most of the time), and quality rock over most, but not all, of the climbing sub-areas.. Mostly for the old school desert rats, as well as those that just want an adventure.  There is a limestone sub-area with a virgin-ing sport climbing theme at Buckskin Gulch (see sub-area listing above), otherwise, the rock is soft sandstone. The aesthetics however, are oh so sweet throughout the GSENM.! This place is in the "Grey and White Cliffs" area or the Kaiporowits down to the Entrada formation. Covering both the Cretaceous and Jurasic periods. The slots are deep, dark and wild places with a few locations where erosion and time have cemented the sand sufficiently enough to climb on... though not your best rock for sure (exception being Buckskin Gultch).  Sew it up! And there are TOWER(S) and counting! For those of you into the bouldering scene there is a fine place to camp and boulder about a third of the way up the Cottonwood Rd. out of Big Water (see "Cap Rock City Area). The rock here is a bit better in that the boulders were once "cap rocks" up above on the ridge and have some real possibilities.

The GSENM is/(WAS) huge and is administered by the B.L.M. Keep a low profile, and nobody will see you or bother you. The climbing reg.s are vague but nobody down here understands climbing much less climbers so best not to perpetuate the negative images the locals have of us in their minds eye.

NOTABLE WILDLIFE includes: Elk, Black Tailed Deer, Black Bear, Mt. Lions, Badgers, a few cows, Golden Eagles, Rock and Canyon Wrens, Spotted Owls, California Condors, a few more cows, just to name but a few. In terms of flora, this area is in the Painted Desert, and is dominated by a Pinyon/Juniper Forest and most of the related plant species that are associated. Coral and Bivalve fossils are abundant with the occasional Sea Urchin spines or Sharks teeth to be seen. Petrified wood as well as some real dino fossils (see two photos in the "Cap Rock City Area") are also around.

Getting There

If you are working in the southern part of the Monument then head for HW 89 and the Visitor Center in Big Water. If working the central or north Monument then head for HW 12. Depending on the canyon/area, it would be best to stop in at the Visitor Center in Cannonville. Get maps and information (on JUST the slots/area and not the routes... keeping a low profile) here.  Warning!  If the road is wet you are in for a really bad day!

88 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Grand Staircase

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deez Nuts - So Much Drama - In t…
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 PG13
Lozen's Line
Trad, Aid
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Spare the Rod...
Trad, Aid
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Fart'n Martin
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Chevy's Chimney
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Barrel O' Fun
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
The Pipe Cleaner
Trad, Aid 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
Code Walker
Trad, Aid
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
"Old Timer's Route"
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Deez Nuts - So Much Drama -… Buckskin Gulch > 5. The Dog Pound
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Lozen's Line Rock Springs > Jodey's Tower
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 PG13 Trad, Aid
Spare the Rod... Church > Altar Boy Tower
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 Trad, Aid
Fart'n Martin Three Amigos Area > Martin's Tower
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Chevy's Chimney Three Amigos Area > Chevy's Tower
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Barrel O' Fun Buckskin Gulch > 2. Carrot Buttress
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
The Pipe Cleaner Church > Organ Pipes Tower
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 Trad, Aid 2 pitches
Code Walker Hackberry Canyon > Lower Hackberry
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2 Trad, Aid
"Old Timer's Route" Three Amigos Area > Steve's Tower
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
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