Elevation: 5,547 ft
GPS: 37.38373, -111.84907
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 171,839 total · 1,386/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Nov 29, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure - Sensitivity Details

Description

The Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument has a varied topography that includes canyons and towers that lack crowds as well as water (most of the time), and quality rock over most, but not all, of the climbing sub-areas.. Mostly for the old school desert rats, as well as those that just want an adventure.  There is a limestone sub-area with a virgin-ing sport climbing theme at Buckskin Gulch (see sub-area listing above), otherwise, the rock is soft sandstone. The aesthetics however, are oh so sweet throughout the GSENM.! This place is in the "Grey and White Cliffs" area or the Kaiporowits down to the Entrada formation. Covering both the Cretaceous and Jurasic periods. The slots are deep, dark and wild places with a few locations where erosion and time have cemented the sand sufficiently enough to climb on... though not your best rock for sure (exception being Buckskin Gultch).  Sew it up! And there are TOWER(S) and counting! For those of you into the bouldering scene there is a fine place to camp and boulder about a third of the way up the Cottonwood Rd. out of Big Water (see "Cap Rock City Area). The rock here is a bit better in that the boulders were once "cap rocks" up above on the ridge and have some real possibilities.

The GSENM is/(WAS) huge and is administered by the B.L.M. Keep a low profile, and nobody will see you or bother you. The climbing reg.s are vague but nobody down here understands climbing much less climbers so best not to perpetuate the negative images the locals have of us in their minds eye.

NOTABLE WILDLIFE includes: Elk, Black Tailed Deer, Black Bear, Mt. Lions, Badgers, a few cows, Golden Eagles, Rock and Canyon Wrens, Spotted Owls, California Condors, a few more cows, just to name but a few. In terms of flora, this area is in the Painted Desert, and is dominated by a Pinyon/Juniper Forest and most of the related plant species that are associated. Coral and Bivalve fossils are abundant with the occasional Sea Urchin spines or Sharks teeth to be seen. Petrified wood as well as some real dino fossils (see two photos in the "Cap Rock City Area") are also around.

Getting There

If you are working in the southern part of the Monument then head for HW 89 and the Visitor Center in Big Water. If working the central or north Monument then head for HW 12. Depending on the canyon/area, it would be best to stop in at the Visitor Center in Cannonville. Get maps and information (on JUST the slots/area and not the routes... keeping a low profile) here.  Warning!  If the road is wet you are in for a really bad day!

111 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Grand Staircase

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1- 5-
 3
Feel the Heel
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Air Affair
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
5.8 Corner
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Mad About Saffron
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
How 'Bout a FRESCA...hmm?
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 PG13
 4
Trickster
Trad, Aid
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
 4
Spare the Rod...
Trad, Aid
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Mellow Yellow
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Deez Nuts
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
 3
The Pipe Cleaner
Trad, Aid 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 16
Barrel O' Fun
Sport, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
 3
Code Walker
Trad, Aid
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Bacon Strip
Sport, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Jackhammer Johnston
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Lucky
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Feel the Heel Wire Pass > Wire Pass Trail
 3
V1- 5- Boulder
Air Affair Buckskin Gulch > 2. Carrot Buttress
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
5.8 Corner Long Canyon
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Mad About Saffron Buckskin Gulch > 2. Carrot Buttress
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
How 'Bout a FRESCA...hmm? Buckskin Gulch > 2. Carrot Buttress
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Trickster Cannonville Area > Rdrunner Tower
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 PG13 Trad, Aid
Spare the Rod... Church > Altar Boy Tower
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 Trad, Aid
Mellow Yellow Buckskin Gulch > 2. Carrot Buttress
 11
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Deez Nuts Buckskin Gulch > 5. The Dog Pound
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
The Pipe Cleaner Church > Organ Pipes Tower
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 Trad, Aid 2 pitches
Barrel O' Fun Buckskin Gulch > 2. Carrot Buttress
 16
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
Code Walker Hackberry Canyon > Lower Hackberry
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2 Trad, Aid
Bacon Strip Buckskin Gulch > 2. Carrot Buttress
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Jackhammer Johnston Buckskin Gulch > 2. Carrot Buttress
 3
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Lucky Buckskin Gulch > 1. Swoop Wall
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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