|GPS:||37.067, -111.608 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||1,167,451 total · 25,237/month|
|Shared By:||Kyran Keisling on Sep 22, 2016|
Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
History (Admin Only): Andrew Gram approved "Description" Oct 17, 2019
Ninety percent of the rock here is complete choss but at least the solid stuff is dusty. One must have a good rock reading nose in order to sniff out the goods. Varnish is the key! Look for orange, brown and black streaks; avoid yellow and white poofy looking rock. Overhangs are rare, with most of the boulders yielding crimpy faces, compression features and pockets that require balance and technical footwork aka slab climbing skills.
Things that set the Big Waters apart from most other areas:
1.There are literally 1000’s of V0 and V1 problems to do. Lowball problems with cushy landings are everywhere for the young and non-committal. My wife and young children don’t have to walk far to find a high quality line to crank on.
2.The landings are the best! Tropic Shale is a pain to dust off of your shoes before each burn but is awesome to crater into when a hold pops.
3.Quiet. In over 15 years of climbing I have only run into a handful of people out there.
4.The photographic brilliance is second to none. It is an absolutely beautiful place.
WEATHER The Big Waters are great in the early spring, late fall and winter. The summer however sucks. It is hotter than two jack rabbits pitchin' woo but worse is the Dog Pecker Gnats; tiny little chingosos that were sent from hell to bite the living piss out of you and then climb into your ear hole and dodge the hastily crafted stick retrieval devise you have created to smash them. Dog Pecker Gnats are like mosquitoes on steroids who haunt the boulder field from early June to Late July. They should be avoided at all cost by going to the lake and deep water soloing on water rotted sandstone.
There is no doubt that people have stopped and dinked around on these boulders before we arrived but I have never found any evidence of their passing. The development of the Big Water Boulders began when Matt Penrod showed me the area in ’97 or ’98 and I instantly fell in love with the place. I spent a considerable amount of time exploring and made it my mission to walk around every single boulder. Matt was my regular partner and a group of Pagites such as Collin Keisling, Jacob Keisling, Aaron Price and Ricky Wilson would join us from time to time to contribute an FA or two. I named our posse “The Seldom Seen Climbers of Northern AZ” but much to my chagrin, no one in the group ever referred to themselves as such. I will never be able to recall all of the problems we all did back then and therefore have entered SSC as the FA in cases where I am not fairly sure of who did it first. On any given day 15 first accents were put up, ninety percent of those will never be documented by me.
The Moon turn off will be a left about 1/4 mile past the creek crossing. There is a wash about 100 yards of the road that requires a 4x4 to get through, the walk is 1.5 miles.
For areas accessible by Hwy 12, drive 2 miles past the creek and you will see the boulders on your left at the base of a very prominent point/mesa. The first boulder field you come to is Jupiter about a 1/2 mile off of the main road, a mile past that is the Roadsides and they are right next to the road. FYI there is a No Off Road Travel Area that runs through the middle of the Jupiter Boulders and continues through the Roadsides and past the Thirsty Dogs.
The Thirsty Dogs are a group of boulders at the base of a striking buttress further down the road just past the Wiregrass Trailhead a 1/2 mile hike from the road.
Coordinates to the start of the boulder fields on NP230 (37.069727, -111.619720)
Classic Climbing Routes at Big Water Boulders
Days w Precip