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Cannibalistic Tendencies
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.8 from 33
votes
Routes in Shangri La
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69th T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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72 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Arete a go-go S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bahala Na T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Being Boiled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Birdseed, Bourbon, and Bolts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Bourbonic S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Candy for Breakfast, Candy for Lunch, Breakfast for Dinner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cannibalistic Tendencies T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Deep In Shangri La T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Flaky Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gremlin Special T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Headhunter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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High Little Thing S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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High-Hanging Fruit Snacks T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Holidays in the Sun S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Lost Horizon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Maneater T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Marriage of Convenience T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Muli Made T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Murut T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Not For The Faint Hearted S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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One for the Pot S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Portal To The Infinite S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Prisoners of the Sun T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Queen of Shangri La, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Replete With Gremlins T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Rose Hip Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rose Hip Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rose Hip Face S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scorpion S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shambala T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Shangorilla, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shantaram S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Short Forever, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sigurd S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sine Wave S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Something on the Side T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Steps To Enlightenment S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Stolen Crown T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sumpit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sunday Roast S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Thin Red Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Totally Topless S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Trials & Tribulations of Margaret Hastings, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Utopian Lamasery S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Vanishing Half S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.77957, -111.90183 |
| FA: | PI Roy Suggett & Andy Ross (FFA = Christy "Kezzie" Shuster, PII Zac Warren, Kezzie, and R. Suggett |
| Page Views: | 1,716 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Roy Suggett on May 17, 2018 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Description
P I This may just be one of the best lines in the Jungle! Start in .75 crack at about 10+ climbing and move up progressively placing larger and larger gear. This pitch "EATS" gear! Great movement on superior rock. Finish with a BD 4 and top out on a comfortable ledge to end the first pitch. There is a two bolt anchor here if what you see ahead is disconcerting.
P II Move off the ledge traversing left and up easily avoiding a few blocks in the crack. Place a BD 6 prior to being "CONSUMED" by this chicken wing 9+ chimney. As many chimneys go, this is a bit run out ( BD 6 X 1, 1 X 1, and .4 X 1, and a runner to sling a horn for about 60 feet) but you could always inhale to stop your fall. You reach a two bolt anchor and good stance to enjoy an absolutely breath taking view.
It would be easy to link these pitches if one wanted, but it is also fun to share the wild ride by trading leads and using the large comfortable ledge.
This line went up ground up and all concerned are quite proud.
6 Comments