Type: Trad, Alpine, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: PI Roy Suggett & Andy Ross (FFA = Christy "Kezzie" Shuster, PII Zac Warren, Kezzie, and R. Suggett
Page Views: 563 total · 37/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on May 17, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

P I   This may just be one of the best lines in the Jungle!  Start in .75 crack at about 10+ climbing and move up progressively placing larger and larger gear.  This pitch "EATS" gear!  Great movement on superior rock.  Finish with a BD 4 and top out on a comfortable ledge to end the first pitch.   There is a two bolt anchor here if what you see ahead is disconcerting.

P II  Move off the ledge traversing left and up easily avoiding a few blocks in the crack.  Place a BD 6 prior to being "CONSUMED" by this chicken wing 9+ chimney.  As many chimneys go, this is a bit run out ( BD 6 X 1, 1 X 1, and .4 X 1, and a runner to sling a horn for about 60 feet) but you could always inhale to stop your fall.  You reach a two bolt anchor and good stance to enjoy an absolutely breath taking view.

It would be easy to link these pitches if one wanted, but it is also fun to share the wild ride by trading leads and using the large comfortable ledge.

This line went up ground up and all concerned are quite proud.

Location

This line can be seen as you approach the crag on the trail and is about dead center on the wall.

Protection

P I BD .75 X 3, 1.0 X 2, 2.0 X 2, 3.0 X 3, 4.0 X 2, and some runners.
P II A runner for horn slinging, BD .4 X 1, 1.0 X 1, 6.0 X 1

Two bolt anchors at the end of each pitch.

A 70 m rope will "just" make it to the ground from the top of pitch two for rapping back to your packs.

Photos