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Routes in Shangri La

Cannibalistic Tendencies T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
High-Hanging Fruit Snacks T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Maneater T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marriage of Convenience T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Queen of Shangri La, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Shangorilla, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Something on the Side T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trials & Tribulations of Margret Hastings, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel, 6/1/18
Page Views: 67 total · 60/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Jun 16, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

We showed up a week too late in Shangri-La to pick much of the low-hanging fruit, so we focused our attention on a few of the remaining lines that looked tasty, but required a bit more work to come into fruition. With some bolting, scrubbing, and choss sculpting on the lower arête, we gained access to this tempting hanging splitter; it was worth the effort for sure and turned out to be a great line with lots of variety and engaging terrain!

Stick-clip recommended for the high first bolt. Pull off the ground just right of the blunt arête and weave up this feature on cool, "ghetto granite" like features and technical climbing. The rock through here will continue to buff out with traffic. The face crux comes with a slight bulge that guards the entrance to a left-leaning flake/block traverse to a stance where the splitter starts. Plug some of your tiniest cams into the very clean and parallel crack, and stand up to a 2nd stance. Place some more finger-sized gear and launch into the interesting crack crux section that succumbs to somewhat inobvious sequencing. Pull into the crack once it gets to tight hands (emphasis tight) and swim up the awesome splitter as it quickly widens to baggy fists. There are face features through the widest section and a decent anchor jug.

Location

A couple of hundred yards left of the Cannibalistic Tendencies zone. Look for a bolted prow leading to a beautiful hanging splitter. 

Protection

7 bolts, (1X) purple C3 (1X).1-#4 BD with (2X).4 and .75, draws/slings, clip-and-lower anchors.

Photos

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