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Marriage of Convenience
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Shangri La
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69th T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bahala Na T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Being Boiled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cannibalistic Tendencies T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Deep In Shangri La T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Gremlin Special T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Headhunter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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High-Hanging Fruit Snacks T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lost Horizon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Maneater T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Marriage of Convenience T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Muli Made T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Murut T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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One for the Pot S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Prisoners of the Sun T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Queen of Shangri La, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Rose Hip Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rose Hip Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rose Hip Face S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shambala T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shangorilla, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sine Wave S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Something on the Side T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Steps To Enlightenment S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Stolen Crown T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sumpit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Thin Red Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Trials & Tribulations of Margaret Hastings, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Utopian Lamasery S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 90 ft |
| FA: | Emily Reinsel and Trevor Bowman 6/2/18 |
| Page Views: | 268 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Jun 16, 2018 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Description
An elegant changing corner system up a clean panel. The route character changes dramatically as the corner changes, providing a distinct rift between the two incongruous parts although they are bound together in the same system. While the moderate upper corner offers great climbing still, it feels a bit anti-climactic after the awesome, burly start. However, if you are the type of climber who thrives on distinct cruxes and withers under sustained endurance route pressure, this should be high on your list! A heads up to any fat-fingered folk out there that the crux section features very tipsy locks that certainly suit small fingers much better. It will almost certainly feel a good bit harder without fairly slender digits.
Stick clip handy for the first bolt, as the landing would be terrible. A bit of face and slightly crunchy tight handcrack leads to the clean, overhanging, right-facing dihedral. Breathe deep and pay attention to sequences and potential stemming onto micro-foot chips as you layback your way up the tips pods and hope you hang in there until the crack opens up to some more solid fingerlocks. This section was bolted, as the crack between the pods if very thin and has a gritty surface inside the crack making gear somewhat sketchy; a gear ripping fall could lead to a very bad landing. From the good locks, sink in some good tips gear and make a couple more moves into a pod with hands in the back. As the corner changes here to left-facing, the angle changes from overhung to slightly less than vertical and you can breathe easy with the difficulties dispatched. Continue up the fun moderate (5.9) corner with a medley of fingerlocks, handjams, and faceholds to a shelf and the anchor. This upper corner was scrubbed hard, but still holds some of the tenacious high-alpine
perma-lichen that doesn't want to part from the stone.
Stick clip handy for the first bolt, as the landing would be terrible. A bit of face and slightly crunchy tight handcrack leads to the clean, overhanging, right-facing dihedral. Breathe deep and pay attention to sequences and potential stemming onto micro-foot chips as you layback your way up the tips pods and hope you hang in there until the crack opens up to some more solid fingerlocks. This section was bolted, as the crack between the pods if very thin and has a gritty surface inside the crack making gear somewhat sketchy; a gear ripping fall could lead to a very bad landing. From the good locks, sink in some good tips gear and make a couple more moves into a pod with hands in the back. As the corner changes here to left-facing, the angle changes from overhung to slightly less than vertical and you can breathe easy with the difficulties dispatched. Continue up the fun moderate (5.9) corner with a medley of fingerlocks, handjams, and faceholds to a shelf and the anchor. This upper corner was scrubbed hard, but still holds some of the tenacious high-alpine
perma-lichen that doesn't want to part from the stone.
Location
Starts off of a high ledge about 100' left of Cannibalistic Tendencies zone. Scramble up a block chimney on the far left end of the ledge. The ledge is currently rather blocky and slightly unstable, and hosts annoying gooseberry bushes. Roy might kindly construct a better via ferratta/handline setup and some pruning if he gets to it amidst all his other trail work.
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