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Routes in Shangri La

Bahala Na T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Being Boiled T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cannibalistic Tendencies T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Deep In Shangri La T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gremlin Special T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High-Hanging Fruit Snacks T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lost Horizon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Maneater T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marriage of Convenience T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Muli Made T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
One for the Pot S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Prisoners of the Sun T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Queen of Shangri La, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Rose Hip Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rose Hip Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rose Hip Face S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shangorilla, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Something on the Side T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thin Red Line T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trials & Tribulations of Margaret Hastings, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Utopian Lamasery S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: R. Suggett, Jenny Quinn, Leila Flanagan, & Mike Flanagan
Page Views: 160 total · 63/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Aug 5, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Bermuda Tower is just far enough away from the main wall to form this chimney.  As is often the case with chimneys, you will be sputtering expletives each and every time you manage to clip something.  This was Leila's first foray with a drill and she did a superb job placing hardware just where you need/want it the most.  Gear placements are critical and creative (the crux) prompting the deepest of thoughts as you move through dark and troubled recesses of your mind and this maw.   

Location

On the west end of Bermuda Tower and opposite of the Trials & Tribulations of Margaret Hastings.  Two thirds of the way down the main trail past the a fore mentioned line and take a spur in the trail up to the base of this west facing route.  Shade here most of the morning.

Protection

With chains and a quick link above and on the tower, a 70 m rope works well. Bring ample means for extending your gear and the five bolts.

Passive: Small wires.

Active: One each of the smallest cams you own, eg. 00 Metolius, through BD #1.0
Roy Suggett
  5.10b PG13
Roy Suggett  
  5.10b PG13
These west facing lines combined with the east facing routes give options if the climbs on the main south facing walls are too warm. Aug 6, 2018
justa beater
sandy utah
  5.10b PG13
justa beater   sandy utah
  5.10b PG13
Gave this a TR burn right after Roy did the FA. I was on the other side of the chimney, watching him battle it out! Awesome effort from Roy, he got it done faster than I got my lead finished. Such a cool chimney. I was able to do most of the route with my back and feet. Very fun, kinda heady, would be a very worthy lead. Aug 8, 2018
Jenny Quinn
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b PG13
Jenny Quinn   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b PG13
Belayed Roy on the FA and it had to have been a heady lead because it was a heady belay! Lots of grunting on the way up! There were a few places where it made sense to turn around and I think that would make leading it extra tricky and possibly add some ping pong fall potential. Such a fun route!! Rare to find such a long, sweet chimney! We even climbed it during a little spout of hail! Can't wait to go back and climb this route again!! Aug 13, 2018

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