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Routes in Bottleneck Peak

Alaska Gold T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3
Tippin The Bottle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Zoomerang T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Description

This is the Impressive formation just south of the San rafeal river campground. It is home to some obscure but awesome routes.The North Face holds a couple classics, some of them products of the diabolical Mr. Pennings and friends.

Getting There

From I-70 take ranch exit 129. Follw this dirt road north toward the buckhorn wash.Park at a turn off just south about 18 miles to a sign locating the peak on the west side of the road. It's only .8mi further to the blm campground with toilets, and tables.Follow a major wash west towards the base, and bust up through the Chinle.Easier than it looks.

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bottleneck Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Zoomerang
Trad 4 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 16
Tippin The Bottle
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Zoomerang
 6
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Tippin The Bottle
 16
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
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Photos

Josh Janes    
The descent from the summit is via three rappels down the Langdon Route. A single 80m cord works, and a 70 almost works: A bit of easy scrambling across a ledge after the first rappel off the top is required, the second rappel is no problem, but on the final rappel a 70 will leave you 15-20' short, but some creative problem solving can make it work.

Every anchor has 4 bolts - three of which are vintage and one of which is modern - but the real issue is the cluster of bleached, crispy webbing woven together: It held my weight in 2014 but I'm sure I weakened it enough that it will fail in a puff of sand and dry nylon for the next poor soul who dares trust it. May 27, 2014
Anybody know anything about the route Fumbling Toward Ecstasy? Feb 1, 2018

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