Avg: 3.4 from 19 votes
|Type:||Sport, Alpine, 100 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Pitch I R. Suggett, R. Magner, P. Curry Pitch II Marilla Lamb and Mitch Yaggie|
|Page Views:||2,339 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||Roy Suggett on Jul 21, 2009|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThis sport route is even better as the thin edges have lost the lichen. The second clip is important! This is the first pitch crux and if you peel after pulling rope prior to the clip...there is a possibility of hitting something hard on the fall. The stance is what we all thought was the best option, but still...be careful! As of 6/15/14 there is now a second pitch. The 11d moves are on this pitch and come at the second to last bolt. The first pitch is still an 11a. You can do the entire thing as one pitch if you have forearms like Popeye OR go to the shared anchor with "Coco's Lichen It" as before. So...
Pitch I Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings. This anchor is shared with the crack just to the left. Climb up the arete then left on to the face. The line is mostly straight up until the last bolt when it turns left.
Pitch II Traverse right from the last bolt of pitch I and head up and toward the wall (which looks doable...check it out on the top rope) and then straight up, clipping the last of six bolts before reaching the two bolt anchor. A 60 meter rope will suffice. This pitch was a collaborative effort! Early in the 2014 season R. Magner and I bolted and cleaned it a bit. The lateness of the day and the rocks wizzing by our heads sent us home with the job unfinished. Later, Alexie and Drew finished cleaning it. Then in late Aug. the FFA (see coments below).