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Routes in Lower Jungle

A Fez for Your Monkey T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Allelopathy Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ape Shit S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Axl Rose's Intro T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bad Banana Dreams S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baloo's Nightmare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Blue Collar Ape S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broad Bagert Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bungle in the Jungle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coco's Lichen It T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Concrete Jungle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Congo Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daniel Quinn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Diverging Evolution T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dr. Livingstone, I Presume? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Away T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flaky Chimp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Funky Monkey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Furious George T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
George S,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gooseberry Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Great Rift Valley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hear the Music S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hey Hey We're The Monkeys T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Homo cragus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Java Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jungle Boogie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Kong S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kipling's Short Story S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knuckle Draggers Needed S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Missing Link, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mistah Kurtz - he dead. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monkey Business S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monkey Fist T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey Trick T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nairobi S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nit Picking T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opposable Thumbs Required S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oranguterror S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Pygmy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Restless Natives S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rikki-Tikki-Tavi T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rudyard Kipling T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shere Khan T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Star of Astoroth T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stross vs. Kipling T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tyger, Tyger, Burning Bright. S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Upton Sinclair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to the Jungle S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Your Bones Will Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, Alpine, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pitch I R. Suggett, R. Magner, P. Curry Pitch II Marilla Lamb and Mitch Yaggie
Page Views: 2,316 total, 23/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Jul 21, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

This sport route is even better as the thin edges have lost the lichen. The second clip is important! This is the first pitch crux and if you peel after pulling rope prior to the clip...there is a possibility of hitting something hard on the fall. The stance is what we all thought was the best option, but still...be careful! As of 6/15/14 there is now a second pitch. The 11d moves are on this pitch and come at the second to last bolt. The first pitch is still an 11a. You can do the entire thing as one pitch if you have forearms like Popeye OR go to the shared anchor with "Coco's Lichen It" as before. So...

Pitch I Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings. This anchor is shared with the crack just to the left. Climb up the arete then left on to the face. The line is mostly straight up until the last bolt when it turns left. There is a questionable hold here that makes the move left easy. It is now "Xed".

Pitch II Traverse right from the last bolt of pitch I and head up and toward the wall (which looks doable...check it out on the top rope) and then straight up, clipping the last of six bolts before reaching the two bolt anchor. A 60 meter rope will suffice. This pitch was a collaborative effort! Early in the 2014 season R. Magner and I bolted and cleaned it a bit. The lateness of the day and the rocks wizzing by our heads sent us home with the job unfinished. Later, Alexie and Drew finished cleaning it. Then in late Aug. the FFA (see coments below).

Location

This face is just right of a right facing dihedral with the crack called "Coco's Lichen It." This is the second to last of the routes in the "Congo Corner."

Protection

Quick draws to shuts (Pitch 1) and M.Rap hangers on the second pitch.
Roy Suggett  
 
That aforementioned "X" block near the first anchor has been crowbarred free. The stance for this first anchor is now much improved! Jul 8, 2017
Michael Buchanan
  5.11a
Michael Buchanan  
  5.11a
Super fun with a great couple of crux moves. There is a loose jug block at around the 6th bolt. Aug 10, 2015
Roy Suggett  
 
Sorry guys. Looks like another pair of good climbers beat you to the FA (see photo and comments). Sep 5, 2014
Roy Suggett  
 
If you start on the right or the arete with square cut stances and then move out on to the face thus avoiding the route to the left (see topo) you will have a spicier start. Congratulations to Alex and Kurt! And I look forward to experiencing your good work to the right! That wall has been begging for a line. Thankx! Sep 2, 2014
Kurt Howes  
 
link-up has been FFA'd (OS) by A. Lemieux and seconded by yours truly. We both prefered starting in the crack and then moving right after the first clip and didn't think it was "R" at all. Did we miss the crux off the ground that warrants an 11+ grade? The whole route is 11.a, possibly 11.b, especially because the choss at the end has been cleaned up. It doesn't really need runners; regular draws suffice. What an excellent climb! Try the new 12- we installed to the right that finishes on this extension. It's called "Ape Shit" and has been freed by A. Lemieux. Sep 2, 2014
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11+
Use long runners on the last 2 bolts of the 1st pitch (6 and 7 I believe) and go for the linkup! The traverse is a bit intimidating but the bolting is super safe. Expect to clip at your waist as the best holds are pretty high up. Do your best to catch a rest after the rightward shuffle as the crux requires some hard pulling and very sequential climbing not suitable for pumped forearms.

We cleaned a lot of blocks of the right arete and sent down a massive column (I could barely slide the smaller piece on the ground). It doesn't change the crux one bit but makes the finish less terrifying since you can actually touch the arete without carpet bombing the belayer. The two Xed blocks below the crux are still there and felt surprisingly solid.
There is also a good candidate for removal on P1, it's Xed and has a sad face on its side... Jul 28, 2014
grk10vq

 
grk10vq    
 
link them or it didn't happen. Jun 15, 2014
Roy Suggett  
 
We extended it! There is an 11d second pitch OR link them if you are some kind of hard ass! Jun 15, 2014
rich magner
Joshua Tree,CA
rich magner   Joshua Tree,CA
On it...when it thaws out! Oct 20, 2011
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11+
Awesome face line, sustained, technical, big moves, clean rock...

I can now comment on my comment: not R, although the first 2 clips are definitely not something you'd want to fumble. I started on the arete to the right and didn't breathe much until I latched the big shelf up and right of the 2nd bolt. Think bouldery climbing on small crimps/sidepulls with lots of body tension and a mediocre clipping hold. Did I mention it is an AWESOME LINE???
The top keeps coming at you and even though the holds get better the occasional slopper will keep you on your toes.

EDIT: one vote for extending this beast to the TOP OF THE TOWER! Sep 6, 2011
Pat C
Honolulu
 
Pat C   Honolulu
 
Thanks Rich, I appreciate the support. Anyhow, I tried to post a video of some of the"choss" that consisted of a 300 lb. rock being pealed off the top of one of the better routes. So, I will say that I support the top down bolting methods. Nov 24, 2010
rich magner
Joshua Tree,CA
rich magner   Joshua Tree,CA
This one is a little spicy to reach the first bolt. PG-13 perhaps? Yes, Pat did almost crack his head, but was super out of position. He's hard-headed though. The rock would've been dust.


The decision to top - rope, work potential routes, find placements, then drill- came out of necessity. The dichotomous nature of this formation ranges from stellar to nasty and rotten. A TR allowed us to test the rock, check for 'booby traps', and avoid face-fulls of gravity powered rhyolite goulash.

Enjoy. Nov 20, 2010
Pat C
Honolulu
 
Pat C   Honolulu
 
The reason this climb is R rated is that I almost cracked my head open at the second bolt. It happened during my first lead on this route, I was super gripped, and not thinking clearly. I was fully extended, trying to clip for like 30 seconds, then I missed it, and took a wild windmill swing that not only brought me very close to the ground, but brought my head very close to an edge. This mistake can be avoided by almost any clear minded individual. Just pull on gear, and try again. Don't be a purist and get yourself killed. I actually wouldn't give this climb an R rating, even though I almost smashed my head up on it. Nov 14, 2010
Roy Suggett  
 
Thanks Boissal for checking us out! The crack to the left was put up on lead. As we rapped down the face we noticed how good the rock was and gave it a go. The first bolt was easy but the second was really hard and nobody had at the time a brush to deal with the lichen...so we went back up the crack and plotted the moves and where the best bolt placements might be. The second clip is the crux. We debated long and hard but decided in the late hours of the day to place the bolt higher than we liked but on a more comforatable stance. And so it goes with the Jungle...all cracks are from the ground up, the faces are mostly combo.s of both practices. Oct 18, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11+
Out of curiosity, was this bolted on lead? The pic seems to indicate otherwise, just checking. Is the rock too chossy down low to avoid the R rating? Or is it artificially runout? Oct 15, 2010
LeMiz Israel
  5.11a
LeMiz Israel  
  5.11a
Super classic. Loved it! Sep 14, 2010
Pat C
Honolulu
 
Pat C   Honolulu
 
Absolutely covered in lichen. Will become more like 10d with more ascents.

Real FA: Roy Suggett, Rich Magner, Pat Curry Jul 23, 2009