Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 80 ft
FA: Scott Carson & Andy Ross
Page Views: 1,583 total · 18/month
Shared By: apross on Oct 2, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Start up a small left facing corner, then face climb up and then left onto the arete. Some tricky moves back right leads you to a flake and then to the base of nice fingercrack.
Up this to the anchor.

Great climb on perfect rock.

Location

Starts 20ft right of Monkey Fist on the front of the obvious orange buttress.

Protection

Bolts.

Yellow and small wire at start, blue between bolts 2 and 3.
Red, black, yellow and double orange's for the upper crack.
All cams Metolius.

Photos

Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10d
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10d
Gritstone ethics on rhyolite? Expect minimalistic bolting on this one coupled with great rock and some of the coolest sequences in the Jungle. Oh, did I mention it was one of the longest lines around?

The start is thin and intimidating, the climbing to first bolt being in the no-fall zone. Scamper up past a second bolt to a long section of discontinuous thin crack with unnerving gear (a bomber small nut is key) to two more bolts. The crux lurks there and seems to offer a few options to skirt a blank section. Latch onto the thank-Jeebus flake and you gain access to 30' or so of fingers to off-fingers crack to finish things off.

While I'm reluctant to give 4 stars to two of Andy's routes that are within 100' of each other, the quality of the climbing makes it a no-brainer. Jul 2, 2012
grk10vq

 
grk10vq    
 
simply brilliant Jul 2, 2012
apross
  5.10+
apross  
  5.10+
Thanks lads, glad you liked it, both Scott and I thought it could be 4 stars. Super route.
Have to say, if we had used grit ethics there would have been bugger all bolts, so think yourselves lucky:) Jul 5, 2012
Roy Suggett  
 
Holy in-your-face-rock, Batman-Ross! VERY stout lead on this outstanding route. Thanks for your hard work down here. Can't wait to have you come back and add to The Jungle's repertoire. Jul 10, 2012
Clayton Knudson
Moab, UT
 
Clayton Knudson   Moab, UT
 
A number 8 (blue) offset nut is a really good piece to have on this route. Did the bottom get retro bolted? Great route with a cryptic crux, well protected with the right gear. Tough onsight for the grade I think. Jul 30, 2018
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10d
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10d
Yeah the FA went back and added 1 bolt (maybe 2) due to my incessant whining... Jul 31, 2018
My favorite of the climbs I have sampled up here so far... really tenuous but amazingly fun and varied climbing. I barely eeked out the onsight after being spooked and almost peeling off at the second bolt (ground fall?!). My gear suggestions are as follows.. quickdraws for 5 bolts (if memory serves), a gold dmm aluminum offset between bolts 2 and 3, and i think i used a .3, .75, 2 .4's and 2 .5's for the upper crack, yes I'm a wimp and like to sew things up =). Thanks to the FA for the titillating experience. Sep 4, 2018