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Routes in Lower Jungle

A Fez for Your Monkey T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Allelopathy Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ape Shit S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Axl Rose's Intro T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bad Banana Dreams S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baloo's Nightmare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Blue Collar Ape S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broad Bagert Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bungle in the Jungle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coco's Lichen It T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Concrete Jungle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Congo Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daniel Quinn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Diverging Evolution T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dr. Livingstone, I Presume? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Away T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flaky Chimp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Funky Monkey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Furious George T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
George S,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gooseberry Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Great Rift Valley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hear the Music S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hey Hey We're The Monkeys T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Homo cragus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Java Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jungle Boogie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Kong S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kipling's Short Story S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knuckle Draggers Needed S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Missing Link, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mistah Kurtz - he dead. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monkey Business S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monkey Fist T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey Trick T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nairobi S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nit Picking T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opposable Thumbs Required S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oranguterror S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Pygmy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Restless Natives S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rikki-Tikki-Tavi T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rudyard Kipling T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shere Khan T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Star of Astoroth T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stross vs. Kipling T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tyger, Tyger, Burning Bright. S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Upton Sinclair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to the Jungle S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Your Bones Will Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 80 ft
FA: Scott Carson & Andy Ross
Page Views: 1,305 total, 17/month
Shared By: apross on Oct 2, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Start up a small left facing corner, then face climb up and then left onto the arete. Some tricky moves back right leads you to a flake and then to the base of nice fingercrack.
Up this to the anchor.

Great climb on perfect rock.

Location

Starts 20ft right of Monkey Fist on the front of the obvious orange buttress.

Protection

Bolts.

Yellow and small wire at start, blue between bolts 2 and 3.
Red, black, yellow and double orange's for the upper crack.
All cams Metolius.

Photos

Roy Suggett  
 
Holy in-your-face-rock, Batman-Ross! VERY stout lead on this outstanding route. Thanks for your hard work down here. Can't wait to have you come back and add to The Jungle's repertoire. Jul 10, 2012
apross
 
apross  
 
Thanks lads, glad you liked it, both Scott and I thought it could be 4 stars. Super route.
Have to say, if we had used grit ethics there would have been bugger all bolts, so think yourselves lucky:) Jul 5, 2012
grk10vq

 
grk10vq    
 
simply brilliant Jul 2, 2012
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10d
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10d
Gritstone ethics on rhyolite? Expect minimalistic bolting on this one coupled with great rock and some of the coolest sequences in the Jungle. Oh, did I mention it was one of the longest lines around?

The start is thin and intimidating, the climbing to first bolt being in the no-fall zone. Scamper up past a second bolt to a long section of discontinuous thin crack with unnerving gear (a bomber small nut is key) to two more bolts. The crux lurks there and seems to offer a few options to skirt a blank section. Latch onto the thank-Jeebus flake and you gain access to 30' or so of fingers to off-fingers crack to finish things off.

While I'm reluctant to give 4 stars to two of Andy's routes that are within 100' of each other, the quality of the climbing makes it a no-brainer. Jul 2, 2012