Type: Sport, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: Roy & Phyllis Suggett
Page Views: 1,592 total · 18/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Sep 6, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

The route starts with consistent 9+ and 10a moves on the east side of the block then traverses around the corner to the north side where the climbing and the rock quality both get harder. At the sixth bolt, use a long runner and then start following the line that arches right. The line that goes left is another route (Jungle Boogie). You must traverse a thin section to a large ledge which is around the corner and not obvious. The traverse is the first crux but really fun. Clip the high bolt on the ledge with a runner. The lower grey hanger is part of the direct start(a.k.a. Java Man). Follow the ramp past two more bolts. The real crux is now getting past the final and twelth bolt. While on the north side you will be out of the sight- line of your belayer...comunication is key while making these crutial clips!

Location

This route is the forth climb you come to in the Lower Jungle on the "Welcome Wall." First is "Axl Rose,s Intro", then "Welcome To The Jungle" then "Jungle Boogie" which shares the same start as this route but arches left to another anchor.

Protection

Twelve bolts takes you up, around the corner, and past the overhanging crack system to chains. Quickdraws and at least four runners. Note! The bolt on the corner is good but needs some more work... somehow I screwed that one up a bit.

Photos

Roy Suggett
  5.11a
Roy Suggett  
  5.11a
At this point in time this is my favorite sport climb in the Jungle(s) and one of my all time favorites anywhere. The route (the first on this formation) starts with a mix of good and not so good rock that can get you thinking as to the best way to approach the line. After about 15 to 20 feet of this the rock is stellar and develops into a bit of a juggie gym climb. You reach a large flaring crack that allows you to rest a bit and survey the first crux to your right. This is a traverse that is exposed and tricky with the last moves disappearing around the arete where you can not see the big ledge reward and rest. From here, start up the ramp and get in balance for the in-your-face overhanging wall at the top of the ramp. Good foot work and ignoring your screaming forearms will find you jamming through the last and most difficult crux of the route to the chains. Lots of fun even though you are out of sight of your belayer and having to loudly beg for slack then tension then slack again! Sep 28, 2011
James I Matthews
  5.10d
James I Matthews  
  5.10d
I agree with Roy that this is a fantastic climb. I found the traverse from the east to north side of the rock to be not so challenging but had great difficulty with the final moves in the overhanging crack. I was able to move slightly left and found this made this crux a little less stiff - perhaps only for shorter people like me! Aug 9, 2013