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Routes in Lower Jungle

A Fez for Your Monkey T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Allelopathy Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ape Shit S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Axl Rose's Intro T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bad Banana Dreams S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baloo's Nightmare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Blue Collar Ape S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broad Bagert Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bungle in the Jungle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coco's Lichen It T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Concrete Jungle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Congo Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daniel Quinn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Diverging Evolution T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dr. Livingstone, I Presume? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Away T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flaky Chimp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Funky Monkey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Furious George T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
George S,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gooseberry Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Great Rift Valley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hear the Music S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hey Hey We're The Monkeys T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Homo cragus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Java Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jungle Boogie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Kong S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kipling's Short Story S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knuckle Draggers Needed S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Missing Link, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mistah Kurtz - he dead. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monkey Business S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monkey Fist T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey Trick T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nairobi S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nit Picking T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opposable Thumbs Required S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oranguterror S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Pygmy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Restless Natives S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rikki-Tikki-Tavi T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rudyard Kipling T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shere Khan T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Star of Astoroth T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stross vs. Kipling T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tyger, Tyger, Burning Bright. S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Upton Sinclair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to the Jungle S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Your Bones Will Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: Roy & Phyllis Suggett
Page Views: 1,380 total, 18/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Sep 6, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The route starts with consistent 9+ and 10a moves on the east side of the block then traverses around the corner to the north side where the climbing and the rock quality both get harder. At the sixth bolt, use a long runner and then start following the line that arches right. The line that goes left is another route (Jungle Boogie). You must traverse a thin section to a large ledge which is around the corner and not obvious. The traverse is the first crux but really fun. Clip the high bolt on the ledge with a runner. The lower grey hanger is part of the direct start(a.k.a. Java Man). Follow the ramp past two more bolts. The real crux is now getting past the final and twelth bolt. While on the north side you will be out of the sight- line of your belayer...comunication is key while making these crutial clips!

Location

This route is the forth climb you come to in the Lower Jungle on the "Welcome Wall." First is "Axl Rose,s Intro", then "Welcome To The Jungle" then "Jungle Boogie" which shares the same start as this route but arches left to another anchor.

Protection

Twelve bolts takes you up, around the corner, and past the overhanging crack system to chains. Quickdraws and at least four runners. Note! The bolt on the corner is good but needs some more work... somehow I screwed that one up a bit.
James I Matthews
  5.10d
James I Matthews  
  5.10d
I agree with Roy that this is a fantastic climb. I found the traverse from the east to north side of the rock to be not so challenging but had great difficulty with the final moves in the overhanging crack. I was able to move slightly left and found this made this crux a little less stiff - perhaps only for shorter people like me! Aug 9, 2013
Roy Suggett  
 
At this point in time this is my favorite sport climb in the Jungle(s) and one of my all time favorites anywhere. The route (the first on this formation) starts with a mix of good and not so good rock that can get you thinking as to the best way to approach the line. After about 15 to 20 feet of this the rock is stellar and develops into a bit of a juggie gym climb. You reach a large flaring crack that allows you to rest a bit and survey the first crux to your right. This is a traverse that is exposed and tricky with the last moves disappearing around the arete where you can not see the big ledge reward and rest. From here, start up the ramp and get in balance for the in-your-face overhanging wall at the top of the ramp. Good foot work and ignoring your screaming forearms will find you jamming through the last and most difficult crux of the route to the chains. Lots of fun even though you are out of sight of your belayer and having to loudly beg for slack then tension then slack again! Sep 28, 2011