Type: Trad, Alpine, 80 ft
FA: Ben Folsom & Maura Hahnenberger 7-3-2011
Page Views: 1,236 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Jul 5, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Climb up a short chossy section (with a mantle over the thorny goosberry) to a ledge. From there, a nice dihedral with a good crack and plenty of edges on the sidewalls offer varied climbing through a few exciting bulges. The route ends on a small stance at a two bolt/chain anchor.

Location

This is the somewhat acute dihedral system about 40 feet left of "Opposable Thumbs Required".

Protection

1-2 sets of cams from finger size to approx. #4 camalot sized... medium and large stoppers are handy.

Photos

Roy Suggett
  5.10a
Roy Suggett  
  5.10a
Super fun route - Nice job Ben and Maura! Loved all of the stemming problems and excellent rock quality at the top. Jul 7, 2011
Very fun lead and beautiful line. Some loose rock just to the right of the anchors. Jul 21, 2011
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Great route Ben & Maura! Rock quality was excellent once past the "kitty litter" slab at the bottom and appreciated the little path through the veg! I found the crux quite exciting! Jun 21, 2012
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.9+
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.9+
Super fun line which reminded me, in a distant way, or some of the easier long corners at the Creek which go through a range of sizes and challenge every aspect of your climbing (as opposed to all the generic jam-fests).
Stem, chimney, jam and crimp your way through two cruxy bulges. I went straight in the first one on fist jams, wild! The final bulge is exhilarating, the holds on the right threatening to decompose at any time.
Gear options are plentiful, the 4 could stay behind but it's fun to haul it around sometimes.

Great eye on this one Maura and Ben! Jul 2, 2012