Type: Trad, Alpine, 60 ft
FA: Roy Suggett & Phyllis Suggett
Page Views: 810 total · 9/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Jul 24, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

The opening move requires a "dyno" if you are less than 6'1" but all moves are well protected with the four bolts all in the right places. You then move right to a sloping ledge where the crack begins; up and left to chains. This anchor is above the anchor for "Rudyard Kipling," you pass this anchor on your left after clipping the fourth bolt. Way too bad the rock quality deteriorates so as to prevent topping out on the tower!

Location

Just around the corner from Rudyard Kipling on what we will be calling "Author's Tower." This area is known as the "Tower Section" of the Lower Jungle." That would be the southeast corner of the tower.

Protection

Four quick draws, three runners, medium to small cams with a few small wires.
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10b
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10b
Got a bit confused apparently and stopped at the anchors on the shelf after the 4th bolt, making this a sport route. The blank face is stellar, bring you best edging shoes and get in balance mode for the transition onto the arete. Sep 6, 2011
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Did something break? Getting past that 3rd bolt was frustrating to say the least! 5.9 A0 for me. Jun 21, 2012
Roy Suggett
  5.10b
Roy Suggett  
  5.10b
Hay Stan,

The transition to the arete is tricky but once done then you wonder why you took so long. Here is a pic that shows the start to the move right. mountainproject.com/v/10726… Mar 1, 2015