Type: Trad, Alpine, 40 ft
FA: C. Masurat
Page Views: 96 total · 1/month
Shared By: Cristina M on Jul 21, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

A thin traverse leads to an excellent thin hands crack to the top.

Location

Out the Lower Jungle trail past King Kong. You will pass through a large split boulder, at which point the tower with Rudyard Kipling comes into view. Rudyard Kipling is the obvious crack on the face that you'll see from the trail.

Protection

One bolt for the traverse, gear to 1" (though mostly .75" and smaller), bolted anchor with rap chains. Have the belayer sit on the ledge to the left of the bolt in order to protect the leader's potential swing during the traverse.

Photos

Roy Suggett
  5.10b
Roy Suggett  
  5.10b
Good route! Fat fingers can be a problem. After stepping out on the face and passing the bolt, you will start to feel more and more exposed. The fall will be safe, it's the swing back towards your belayer that will trouble you. Have them keep their feet out! The crux is getting that first piece in the crack. Take a breath and move up the short but very sweet (much like the first ascentionist)crack that will require some first-knuckle lock offs for the larger handed climbers. The anchors can be used for either a top rope on the lower section of Upton Sinclair or the starting point for a second pitch of the upper section of Upton Sinclair. Fun Route! Jul 24, 2011
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Very nice climbing up the crack! Too bad its so short. Jun 21, 2012
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10a
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10a
This thing looked intimidating last year and I passed. A second look this time around revealed enough holds on the face to make that traverse casual. From there it's great finger locks to the anchor.
I hear the direct start is done, it looks really good! Jul 2, 2012