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Routes in Lower Jungle

A Fez for Your Monkey T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Allelopathy Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ape Shit S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Axl Rose's Intro T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bad Banana Dreams S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baloo's Nightmare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Blue Collar Ape S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broad Bagert Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bungle in the Jungle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coco's Lichen It T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Concrete Jungle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Congo Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daniel Quinn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Diverging Evolution T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dr. Livingstone, I Presume? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Away T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flaky Chimp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Funky Monkey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Furious George T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
George S,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gooseberry Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Great Rift Valley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hear the Music S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hey Hey We're The Monkeys T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Homo cragus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Java Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jungle Boogie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Kong S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kipling's Short Story S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knuckle Draggers Needed S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Missing Link, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mistah Kurtz - he dead. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monkey Business S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Monkey Fist T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey Trick T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nairobi S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nit Picking T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opposable Thumbs Required S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Oranguterror S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Pygmy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Restless Natives S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rikki-Tikki-Tavi T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rudyard Kipling T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shere Khan T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Star of Astoroth T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stross vs. Kipling T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tyger, Tyger, Burning Bright. S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Upton Sinclair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to the Jungle S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Your Bones Will Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: Roy & Phyllis Suggett
Page Views: 1,304 total, 17/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Jul 7, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Five bolts straight up a mini dihedral then right onto the face (while using the chimney when needed), then clip 7 more bolts (12 total) to chains.

Location

This is the third climb, on the "Welcome Wall" in the Lower Jungle, to the left of "Jungle Boogie."

Protection

11 quickdraws and 3 runners.
Branden Michelkamp
Salt Lake City
 
Branden Michelkamp   Salt Lake City
 
Pretty sustained and super fun! Plus you can throw a rock at your car. Jun 22, 2015
Led this one the other day without the beta information from this site. Since the upper bolts are placed in the middle of the face (see my comment on the beta photo) I supposed that the route went directly up the bolt line using neither the dihedral on the right nor the arete on the left. This supposed line is considerably stiffer than 5.10b. Needless to say there was some extensive dogging and complaining on this 45 minute exercise! There was also a fall taken when a mid-face foothold crumbled.

On a TR second try, I used the arete. It is mostly reasonable 5.10 but a couple of the clips would be real stretches. Getting to the 2nd to last bolt from the arete is a hard move.

Enjoyed seeing the monkey bauble at the anchors :-) Sep 3, 2013
James I Matthews
  5.10b
James I Matthews  
  5.10b
This is a nice route. It gives you a pretty good feel for what the Jungle has to offer. If you enjoy this one, then you'll love the Jungle, as there are several routes that are even more fun. Aug 9, 2013
travis timm
Tropic, Utah
  5.10c
travis timm   Tropic, Utah
  5.10c
Awesome rout that looks harder than it is. I agree with boissal, stick to the arete/face and you will find good edges. After climbing this rout I definitly suggest TR the offwidth, it's super fun. Jul 10, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10b
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10b
I'd second Stan's comments. Don't go to the chimney, the thin traverse is probably the crux and doesn't feel much harder than staying on the arete/face where hidden edges lurk.
Back-clean the high bolt before the traverse to reduce rope drag.
Great long route but it might scare your pants off if it's your intro to the Jungle. Some of the wafer holds just don't feel right... Jul 2, 2012
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10b
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10b
This is a great route - probably my favorite of the few I got to do. Using long slings at the traverse is not too scary if you are heading for the corner. Staying on the face/arete above that point looked improbable to me but I gave it a go on TR and found it doable and fun though at least a half grade harder than the corner. May 22, 2012
Roy Suggett  
 
After the summer of 2011 ended and there had been many ascents of this route, it really cleaned it up nicely. 95% of the rock is of good quality and makes this long route really enjoyable. The first line of bolts are pumpy and require some varied technique to reach the last bolt prior to the traverse right. Clip long here and long again on the next bolt of the traverse. You do not want to do this because you are in the middle of the climb's crux; do it anyway, the smoother pull higher up will pay off later. You can stay with face moves or use the off-width crack further right to back step up with the right foot and use the left foot on the face. Depending on your level of fear relating to off-widths, the crack seems to be easier. It is pumpy and a long way from here to the chains so find a rest and use it! Feb 17, 2012