Type: Sport, Alpine, 65 ft
FA: Roy Suggett & Phyllis Suggett
Page Views: 1,607 total · 16/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Sep 5, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This route is on a triangular-shaped pillar mid-way in the Lower Jungle. The bolts are right of the arete though the climb may dictate switching from right to left and back across the arete OR hang on (left hand & "thumb") for a wild and slightly more demanding ride completely on the right.

Location

To the left and around the corner of "Knuckle Draggers Needed." A new climb on a second arete "Allelopathy Arete" is just left of this climb. A pillar very close to these climbs has yet another arete to be put up! Three aretes in a row would be cool! This corner forms the end of the "Wailing Wall."

Protection

Quick draws to chains.

Photos

grk10vq

 
grk10vq    
 
a beautiful line, with a few wild moves. i climbed this directly up the face, right of the bolt line. it was a bit harder, but fantastic. Sep 6, 2011
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.11
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.11
One of the best sport routes I've done anywhere! The opening section is thought provoking with a halfway mantle that will get your heart going. The arete sequence is so unlikely and exposed you'll be high-fiving yourself off the route when you get it clean. The last couple of overhanging moves are the cherry. Bolts are exactly where you want them and I pulled the last loose hold off at the bottom. Seemed HARD for 11a though, more like beta intensive mid 11.

Excellent eye on this one Roy!

Edit: looking at the pictures and re-reading the description, it seemed like we stuck to the R side of the arete until the last move. There might be an easier sequence on the L at the 3rd/4th bolt which I didn't see. So technical mid.11 for the R side version. Sep 6, 2011
jakobi
moab, utah
 
jakobi   moab, utah
 
Staying on the right face is probably mid 11 and amazing climbing. Great route! Jun 26, 2014