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All Locations > Utah > Capitol Reef Na… > Grand Wash Area

Capitol Flake

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British


 Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes

Routes in Grand Wash Area

BFF T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Capitol Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Necco Wafer, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sandy Dihedral T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jocelyn and Bob Van Belle Spring 1994
Page Views: 150 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jared Spaulding on Apr 26, 2011 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Climb a hand, wide hand and fist crack behind a jagged flake to a two bolt rap anchor. This is mostly wide hands, I found the crux to be at the top getting to the anchor. The nature of the flake gives this route an exposed feel. Good desert climbing.

Location

This route is about 25-30 yards left of BFF in Grand Wash and a hop, skip & a jump from a short 5.9 finger corner. It is just right of a chimney and leaning pillar. See overview photo.

Protection

#1 to #3 Camalots with 4 #3 Camalots.

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Photos

An overview of a couple of climbs left of the Terrible Twos Area
An overview of a couple of climbs left of the T…
 0
A photo of Unknown Flake (5.10)
A photo of Unknown Flake (5.10)
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2 Comments

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Tyson Taylor
Tyson Taylor  
This I think is called Capitol Flake. It was put up and FA'd by Darren & Jen Knezzek. I'd sew it up a bit more than previous beta, an even mix of 2"-2.5" and 3"s, maybe even a 3.5" near the top. I guess I have less trust for sandstone, even windgate, placing a cam every 4-5 feet. Bring lots of runners for the middle and base. It takes a nice nut directional at the bottom. The flake is pretty flimsy looking 3/4 of the way up, so drive the cams super deep. Oct 15, 2011
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
 
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
 
Thanks Tyson. I'll update the route name. Hope you enjoyed the climbing in the park. The tips crack to the right is a 5.7 eh? Seemed harder to me. Oct 20, 2011

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