Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jocelyn and Bob Van Belle Spring 1994
Page Views: 190 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jared Spaulding on Apr 26, 2011 with updates from bvb
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Climb a hand, wide hand and fist crack behind a jagged flake to a two bolt rap anchor. This is mostly wide hands, I found the crux to be at the top getting to the anchor. The nature of the flake gives this route an exposed feel. Good desert climbing.

Location

This route is about 25-30 yards left of BFF in Grand Wash and a hop, skip & a jump from a short 5.9 finger corner. It is just right of a chimney and leaning pillar. See overview photo.

Protection

#1 to #3 Camalots with 4 #3 Camalots.

Photos

This I think is called Capitol Flake. It was put up and FA'd by Darren & Jen Knezzek. I'd sew it up a bit more than previous beta, an even mix of 2"-2.5" and 3"s, maybe even a 3.5" near the top. I guess I have less trust for sandstone, even windgate, placing a cam every 4-5 feet. Bring lots of runners for the middle and base. It takes a nice nut directional at the bottom. The flake is pretty flimsy looking 3/4 of the way up, so drive the cams super deep. Oct 15, 2011
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
  5.10
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
  5.10
Thanks Tyson. I'll update the route name. Hope you enjoyed the climbing in the park. The tips crack to the right is a 5.7 eh? Seemed harder to me. Oct 20, 2011