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Routes in Capitol Gorge

Capitol Gorgeous T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Classic Handcrack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Premonitions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Splitter T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Seamus Chill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unnamed 5.12 T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: Bob van Belle, Jocelyn van Belle, May 1994
Page Views: 2,480 total · 28/month
Shared By: Jared Spaulding on Mar 28, 2011 with updates from bvb
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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This is the beautiful wide hand/tight fist crack of Capitol Reef. Climb a ramp to a stance below the large left facing corner. Climb up the corner to a two bolt anchor below the roof or continue through the roof, beware the possibly loose block, and continue to higher anchor. A stretchy 70 meter should get you down from the lower anchor.


This gem is located a couple hundred feet left of False Premonitions and is on the right side of a large alcove. There is a faint trail that leads up to the wall from the wash. From where the dirt road crosses the wash the first time, hike up the wash past a lone juniper to where it becomes rocky; from this point small cairns mark a path up and right to the base of the wall in the vicinity of "The Big Three Inch" a left facing corner with two bolt anchor at the top.


A few smaller pieces for the initial ramp then lots of #3 Camalot/#3.5 Friend sized pieces and #4 Friends and some #4 Camalots.


  5.10a/b PG13
  5.10a/b PG13
I was new to new routing on Wingate in the early 90's, so I botched this and put the anchor in too low. Killer splitter, though. Feb 3, 2013
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
Hey Bob, thanks for the information on this and a bunch of the other CRNP routes. And thanks for the routes... Mar 13, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
we thought we were climbing this , but the picture shows we were way off- did a double crack in right facing corner, anchor below a roof with OW. It was closer to the south face corner. Information is hard to come by for CRNP. Nov 4, 2016
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
Jared Spaulding   Central WY

Were you right or left of where the route is indicated in this picture? Also, there is a guidebook to the area...…

or maybe you already have it...? Nov 5, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
we were way right, very near where it wraps around to south side. I will get your book for next time. Jan 17, 2017

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