Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: Bob van Belle, Jocelyn van Belle, May 1994
Page Views: 3,367 total · 30/month
Shared By: Jared Spaulding on Mar 28, 2011 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is the beautiful wide hand/tight fist crack of Capitol Reef. Climb a ramp to a stance below the large left facing corner. Climb up the corner to a two bolt anchor below the roof or continue through the roof, beware the possibly loose block, and continue to higher anchor. A stretchy 70 meter should get you down from the lower anchor.

Location

This gem is located a couple hundred feet left of False Premonitions and is on the right side of a large alcove. There is a faint trail that leads up to the wall from the wash. From where the dirt road crosses the wash the first time, hike up the wash past a lone juniper to where it becomes rocky; from this point small cairns mark a path up and right to the base of the wall in the vicinity of "The Big Three Inch" a left facing corner with two bolt anchor at the top.

Protection

A few smaller pieces for the initial ramp then lots of #3 Camalot/#3.5 Friend sized pieces and #4 Friends and some #4 Camalots.

Photos