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Routes in Capitol Gorge

Capitol Gorgeous T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Classic Handcrack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
False Premonitions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Splitter T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Seamus Chill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unnamed 5.12 T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Lianna Winklerprins and Ian Pierce
Page Views: 617 total, 9/month
Shared By: Ian Pierce on Jul 10, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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P1 110' Climb the right chimney. There are two blocks in the climb that you have to get outside the chimney to work around, there are a lot of holds but most are loose. After that continue up into a run out bigger than squeeze chimney/offwidth and then top out on a ledge. We rapped off of a slung boulder here (horrible pull) 5.9 PG-13+.
P2 80'? looks like you could continue up this with some easy face climbing/low angle crack to a tree, it looked pretty run out.

2 60m ropes for the rappel off P1


~1.2 miles from pavement down capitol gorge. Climb is on the right at the start of a 180' left turn. There is lots of room to pull off the road in the turn.


Medium cams, single rack #.5-#4 camalots. A medium hex would be useful instead of the #4.