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Areas in Ibex

Baby Buttress 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Blind Valley 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 45 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 45
Boyscout Bluff 0 / 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Cape, The 5 / 5 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Corral Crags 4 / 16 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Island of Stone 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Madness Buttress 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Newlywed Area 2 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Procrastinator Wall 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Quartermoon Tower 7 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
S&L Tower 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Severity Buttress 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Shadow Buttress 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 6
Shamrock Scare Buttress 2 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Sheep Rock Area 3 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Snakeskin Buttress 2 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
South Corridor 2 / 10 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Syringe 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Wind Buttress 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Wolfenstein Rock 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Description

Most of the info posted here is from the book "A Bouldering Guide to Utah" by Baldwin, Beck, Russo. This is mostly a bouldering area with a few mixed gear, trad and sport routes. This place is epically eerie and seated at the end of a dry desert lake out in the middle of the desert in southern Utah. The boulders are monstrous red quartzite behemoths and since it all sits next to a dead lake it magnifies the feeling of how beautifully desolate and remote this area is. Besides the dead lake the rocks themselves give you an eerie feeling. Some of them are even hollow, completely solid, but they still ring like a bass drum when you bang on them. This is a five star bouldering area if you like to go high.

Getting There

The easiest way to get there is from Hwy 50. The exit off of the highway is on the right heading east, or on the left heading west, around mile marker 38 or 39, just passed the Ibex Well sign if your heading east. You will know it is the right road because there are two posts at the entrance where you can tell there used to be a sign. follow that dirt road for about 2.1 miles where you will come to a couple stacks of rocks marking the next turn. turn right at the rock piles heading back west. cross the dry lake bed and you pull straight up to the crag.

147 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ibex

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5 6C
Topus Arete
Boulder
V7 7A+
Ju
Boulder
V7 7A+ PG13
Arete Stand
Boulder
V8 7B
Jesus
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Absorption
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quartermoon
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rattler’s Arête
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Aurora Borealis/Lunar Power
Trad 6 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
Long Shadow
Sport, Aid 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Severity Disparity
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ewe.F.O
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lakeshore Loon
Sport 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ride the Wave
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nose Shadow
Sport 4 pitches
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Blood Meridian
Sport
Topus Arete Bouldering > Topus Mtn > Topus Boulder V5 6C Boulder
Ju Bouldering > Red Monster Area > Red Monster V7 7A+ Boulder
Arete Stand Bouldering > Red Monster Area > Thing 1 V7 7A+ PG13 Boulder
Jesus Bouldering > Candyland V8 7B Boulder
Absorption Shadow Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Quartermoon Quartermoon Tower > N Face 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Rattler’s Arête Snakeskin Buttress 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Aurora Borealis/Lunar Power Quartermoon Tower > E Face 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
Long Shadow Shadow Buttress 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 Sport, Aid 5 pitches
Severity Disparity Severity Buttress 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Ewe.F.O Corral Crags > Ewe For Real Wall 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Lakeshore Loon Syringe 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport 3 pitches
Ride the Wave S Corridor > Holey Moley Wall 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Nose Shadow Shadow Buttress 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 4 pitches
Blood Meridian Snakeskin Buttress 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Ibex »

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The description for getting out to the main area is overly complicated (or wrong) on just about every guide (including here).

Headed west from Salt Lake, after passing through the 'cut' the road goes through, the cliffs of Ibex will very obviously be on your left. Take the next left turn onto a dirt road that you see. Drive 2.1 miles and there's an obvious right turn that takes you across the lake bed to the cliffs. The roads are in perfect shape, it was easy to get our RV trailer out there.

While we were there, it was surprising how many people drove past the massive dry lake bed to park on top of the very limited vegetation right next to the boulders, just to be 30 feet closer to the climbing. Leave no trace includes parking that doesn't needlessly kill the local plants.

This is an amazing climbing location that everyone should be psyched to visit and take good care of. May 9, 2016
Nick Niebuhr
Santa Fe, NM
Nick Niebuhr   Santa Fe, NM
My wife and I decided to stop at ibex on our way through Utah yesterday, I would not recommend getting there in the dark if you've never been! Lots of confusion with all the darkness and gravel roads. If you're coming from the west, the turnoff is just before mile 39, not between 38 and 39 like the description says. Apparently that will get you there if you take the left fork but it doesn't cross the lake.
We decided to play around on the red monster area boulders and had a hoot! Didn't have the guidebook so just looked at MP and hopped on what looked cool. There were some fun cracks and other problems! The rock takes a bit of getting used to... Can't trust the friction of everything that looks good.
All in all this is a beautiful climbing spot in the middle of nowhere, I'd go back asap if it wasn't so far from home! Didn't see any aliens but was kinda hoping to find something weird... Nov 4, 2015
This place had rad routes and is full is strange surprises. A tip on getting there:

If there has been rain you will not be able to cross the "dry lake bed" because there will be a lake in your way, as there was for us. Heading West on Hwy 50, if you take your next left rather than the one described in the MP directions (it is maybe a mile more down the road) you will be on another dirt road that will take you right up to the main crag without having to cross the lake. Just drive straight down the road until it ends in a fork (about 2 miles) and go left. When you turn the corner around the cliff the crag will be on your right. Camp wherever it is dry and flat and bring plenty of water! Aug 25, 2014
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
Really disappointed at the amount of trash I found on my latest trip. Most of it seemed concentrated around the Corral Crags. This leads me to believe it is probably coming from climbers. PACK IT OUT FER CHRISSAKES! You are right next to your damn car! May 27, 2014
meghan c.
el paso, tx
meghan c.   el paso, tx
I recently found a small metal vial containing another glass vial (now broken) full of very small white pills at the base of the 5.8 crack that goes up to Northern Corn... any idea as to what these are / where they came from? May 20, 2014
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
If the only good boulders you're finding are v7 or harder, you're doing it wrong.

Definitely tons of quality problems from v0-5
The Cow Boulder as well as Captain Choss offer good easy climbs, driving out to Warm Point or Candyland also brings you to really great easy problems. Mar 15, 2014
Actually, I get to do what I wanna do. May 17, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
I've never touched a V7 and I've spent over a week bouldering at Ibex, having a blast the whole time. Maybe walk past the Red Monster?
Tenesmus' comment was tongue in cheek. Finding choss at Ibex isn't that easy. As far as disagreeing with comments, I guess I'm gonna need to apply for a permit... May 17, 2013
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
Just got back from Ibex. While there, I found a long sling and 2 locking biners on a boulder next the the corral crag, near Ewe.F.O....I also found a NOLS water bottle on the hardpan, with a small racking biner attached to it and a cool cheetah sticker (c'mon guys, leave no trace).

However, my digital camera fell out of my pocket while i was rappelling quartermoon, I think it is on the grassy ledge up there in the middle of the climb. It's not that nice a camera, but it is waterproof and I don't really have a ton of money to replace it. I'd really like the pictures that are on it. It's a blue fuji. If you find it, text or call me at (eight 4 five) seven oh five-92 zero seven.

Maybe someone finds my camera? Maybe someone lost their slings?

-Eric May 12, 2013
I couldn't disagree more. There are plenty of problems under v4 that are super fun. The cow bolder alone has at least 8 problems under v3. And if you aren't bouldering that hard, just go climb routes...

Better yet, its way too far to drive. And its always windy. And sandy. Super sandy! Too hot too. Apr 22, 2013
Jon Marek
Sioux Falls, SD
Jon Marek   Sioux Falls, SD
People coming to Ibex for the boulders should know that unless you are a SOLID v7 or stronger climber you might be disappointed with the established problems. That said, there are a number of extremely classic v7-11 problems on just the Red Moster, Thing 1, and Thing 2. Apr 20, 2013
Tim Hadfield
Steamboat Springs, Co
Tim Hadfield   Steamboat Springs, Co
Just getting back from my first (of many) trips to Ibex. Amazing place. I would highly recommend James Garrett's new West Desert Guidebook. Great information, easy to follow directions, and tons of newly published routes. And if you need more info, maybe you'll run into him out there.... we did. Thanks for all your great suggestions, James. Apr 14, 2012
Ibex may have the most frictionless rock on the planet.

I got some help from the perfect send shoe for Ibex: Muira VS resoled with 5.10 stealth rubber. May 13, 2011
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
The sign seems to be missing at the turnoff from Hwy 6, but the road is pretty obvious (first left after the roadcut if you're coming from Delta) and there are cairns at both the Hwy 6 turnofff and at the turn to get over to the main area. Apr 19, 2010
Eckhard
Denver, CO
Eckhard   Denver, CO
James bravo on the book! Accurate, really easy to use w/ interesting background info. this place is a gem if the winds don't take you at night. It also seemed a bit sand bagged, fyi, but worth it! Apr 18, 2009
I think the point was that rarely does "letting the cat out of the bag" really make much of a difference...at least it didn't at Ibex. Jan 8, 2008
Love to do some of your routes D Durrant....just let me know where they are or posting them here would be cool....you are correct, lots of unclimbed rock, and 7 years after the guidebook hasn't even made an effect....though probably double the amount of routes in that area these days....so much for the secret area credo held by some? Jan 5, 2008
D. Durrant
Utah, USA
D. Durrant   Utah, USA
While hiking around looking for possible new lines I noticed a lot of new bolts and anchors, especially south of the syringe. I would like to contribute to the progress but don't want to step on any toes. Is there somebody who knows the current (Nov. 07) happenings? Looks like loads of unclimbed rock. Nov 27, 2007
Spinalflow
Sugarhouse , Utah
Spinalflow   Sugarhouse , Utah
Not as bad as some may make it sound that is if you love to get crazy.

Aliens, 60mph sand storms and FREAKS.

Hell is merely a perception my friends!

Don't miss the sand dune jumping behind the mining operation SW across the pan!

By the way if anyone finds my Icarus Kiteboarding hat. I seemed to have lost it in a Discovering Morals Training session. Damn aliens.....

Spring / Fall are the best times not just a bouldering location. Sep 14, 2007
Umph!  
This place is a nightmare!!
Probably the single worst place to spend time on the entire planet!

Poisonous everything imaginable. . . even the rocks, which are chock-full of asbestos and other naturally occurring carcinogens.
Furthermore, this is one of two places where I was nearly abducted by aliens (the other was on our southern border).

The quartzarenite rock is pitiful and slimy - akin to climbing a stalagmite, but without the good friction.
The weather is truly a heartache.
The sheepherders are the orneriest bunch of foul cusses you could ever come across, and they travel the area in packs.
Its location is in the heart of Nowhereville, and their emergency services suck!
I've witnessed grown, educated men running naked across the hardpan, screaming and beating their chest, filled to the brim with "desert madness".

If you dare venture to this gem, I mean hell-hole, keep in mind the following:
James Garretts, IBEX guidebook: Read it and bring it - a superb guide with excellent ethics, history and side-notes (don't know James, but have used his guidebook, and it is a dandy!).
Stay on designated trails/roads; pack out all of your trash; do not drive across the "dead lakebed".
May the Gawds be with you. May 8, 2007
James Garrett IBEX guide book is really the best IBEX guide book out there. It's unfortunate that James will be in Africa in the near future and not here putting up great routes. Apr 23, 2007
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
James Garrett published a guidebook titled “Ibex” that contains fantastic background on the area. Not only does this guide provide route information for Ibex and some other west desert climbs, it includes history, ethical considerations for the area, and a descriptive geology lesson that is unmatched by other guidebooks. Apr 11, 2007

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