Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jason Stevens for AB and James Garrett and Renae Power for LP, 2002-2003
Page Views: 6,757 total · 41/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Apr 10, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Description

These are really two separate routes. I have climbed them several times now, and always seem to combine them to attain the top of Quartermoon.

Initially, Aurora Borealis, named for the lightshow the FA witnessed the night before during their drive to Ibex, started partway up the East Face of Quartermoon. It ended on a big ledge with a two bolt belay on a gargantuan boulder. Lunar Power later started at the actual base of the Tower at its lowest point and then continued to the summit. By combining these two routes, one has one of the longest routes at Ibex and makes for a great option for climbing Quartermoon. This climb has just about everything going for it. The very start is 5.12b (FFA=Tim Toula) for one move but is easily cheatable and well protected.

Pitch #1: Start at the overhang near a large flat topped boulder at the base of the east face of Quartermoon. Getting off the ground will be the hardest move. Pass 4 bolts to a ledge and belay here or continue up passing many bolts and killer gear placements in a long pitch reaching a two bolt belay. 5.10a A0 or 5.12b, 35m.

Pitch #2: Continue up the steep face following more bolts to the the big aforementioned ledge. 5.10b, 30m.

Pitch #3: Lunar Power begins here and climbs an easy step to another down sloping ledge and another two-bolt belay. 5.6, 15m.

Pitch #4: Climb a rightward diagonalling crack to a couple of bolts and move right to a wide bolted layback crack. Follow this until one reaches an inset chimney / ramp. You will find a two-bolt belay here. 5.9, 30m

Pitch #5: Climb the rampish chimney to another ledge. Cross the ledge to a perfect steep hand crack that reaches a two-bolt belay at the base of the final chimney. 5.7.

Pitch #6: Utilize the final pitch of Lunar Power to worm your way through the pleasant and well protected Chimney/OW (one bolt) to a final puzzling finger crack to the two bolt belay on top. 5.9, 25m.
Continue on to the tower top to the north for festivities and sign in.

Descent is best via the northern routes or by Walking The Moonbeam.

Location

Walk along the base of the East Face of Quartermoon to the table top boulder. The bolts will be seen from there. Aurora Borealis is the original route here and Lunar Power provided a prefix and suffix type extension of the climb.
Probably best to descend one of the other routes.

Protection

Set of Camalots to #3. QDs, Shoulder runners

Photos