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Routes in Shadow Buttress

Absorption T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
All Around Routine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Long Shadow S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
Made in the Shade S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nose Shadow S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shadow of Doubt T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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The largest and tallest section of the Ibex cliff band, the Shadow Buttress is an impressive sight to behold. Its name was probably taken from the shadow that it casts across its northern flanks. An enormous dihedral splits through the center of the buttress, and a gigantic grey roof looms above the boulders below. The rock quality here is sporadic, and may clean up with increased traffic. However, traffic does not exist at Ibex.

Getting There

Park at the highball boulder problems at the edge of the hardpan. Hike straight up to the base of the cliff for about two minutes.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Shadow Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
Long Shadow
Sport, Aid 5 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nose Shadow
Sport 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Long Shadow
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 Sport, Aid 5 pitches
Nose Shadow
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 4 pitches
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I went bouldering at Ibex several times before realizing that there were any sport routes up the buttress. After getting a little beta, we went up the middle of the buttress which works through four pitches of well protected rock. The second pitch makes the whole effort worth it by far. Although the rock is chossy in a few places (if you're going to pull something off it'll be the first pitch), overall the climb is very sustained and deceivingly hard. There are plenty of belay stations, many at good locations, and the exposure is phenomenal. Take at least 25 draws. The buttress can be rapped down with two 60m double rope rappels.

P1: (5.11+/-) depending on if you go middle right or middle left

P2: (5.12+) most of this pitch is actually much easier, however the last 20ft gets increasingly harder right before you pull out of the roof.

P3: (5.12) this pitch is the longest of the four and will create some drag. I was glad to get my shoes off after leading this one. If you're trying to reach the cave/ledge, then continue just past the obvious belay station and then traverse right for 30 Ft. There are chains on the edge.

P4: (5.11) the shortest and easiest of the 4 pitches, although by this time you're quite tired. The top is closer than it looks, but don't get anxious and pass the chains since they're not right on top. Great View! Apr 28, 2009
Hi Puppet,
Nice send, the route you climbed and included photos of is called Desert King, 4 pitches, FA by Tim Toula who graded it 5.13a, but it had only been free climbed once before. Not sure about the 30 ft. (DK continues to the top straight up?) rightward traverse, sounds like you left DK and finished via Nose Shadow, the original route on the wall? Good job! Thanks for your comments May 9, 2009
Thanks James I'm glad someone here knows and can clarify more about the buttress. I hope I didn't confuse anyone with my original beta. I made the traverse after the 3rd pitch over to the cave to see what there was. All I could find was a set of chains and one bolt; however there is a chance I just didn't see the original line. I then traversed back to DK and finished straight up.

It seems like you know a lot, perhaps you can shed light on the many other routes up the buttress. I'm honestly not sure what the ratings should be since I fell a few times, but if it's a 13a than that might explain things. May 23, 2009

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