Elevation: 5,679 ft
GPS: 41.222, -111.924 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 80,331 total · 460/month
Shared By: Dave Clawson on Mar 9, 2006 with improvements by Gerald Johnson
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

This area is composed of the long two (or more in spots) tiered quartzite cliff band that overlooks Ogden from the east. The canyon to its north is Ogden Canyon; the canyon to its south is Taylor Canyon. All the walls in this area face west, so they bask in the sun in the afternoon and evening. The mornings are shady. The alcove is one exception, it faces NW and sees more shade than the other walls. This has been a nice quiet place to climb in the past. The somewhat long steep approach, wasps and rattlesnakes are enough to deter many a weak willed climber. It is slowly becoming more often visited though. Most of the routes are sport. There are also a good amount of trad routes.

Getting There

To get to the northern walls (The Ramp Routes, Asbury Park, and The Basement): Go to 22nd street in Ogden and follow it east. The road ends at a parking lot (cars are commonly broken into here, usually via a closed window, so I would advise you not to leave valuables in your vehicle). The trail starts at the northeast corner of the parking lot. Follow a maze of mountain bike trails east to the Bonneville Shoreline trail. Follow this trail for a couple minutes as it bends to the south. A climbers trail will break off left straight up the hill. This leads to the base of a grassy ramp. Hike up this ramp to the south. You'll soon arrive at The Ramp Routes and farther up you'll find Asbury Park and The Basement.

To get to the southern walls (Taylor Corners Area to The Tangerine): Go to 27th street in Ogden, head east and park at the end of the street. From here follow trails and switchbacks east. These trails lead one to the upper boulder field. This field is located just south of Castle Rock(the huge boulder with white paint on its west face). Go to the north-east corner of the field via trails. Finally scramble up the talus to the base of the Utahnics Wall. To get on the second tier, climb one of the Utahnics Wall routes or climb the 4th class approach pitch just to the left of the wall.

To get to middle sections a third access option exists (the Basement, Sunday wall, Asbury Park, BNF, & Alcove). Park at lake street trail access and navigate the boulder field to Patriot Crack. Head up the talus field, side hilling/switch backing toward the "Toe" located on the north side of the gully. A prominent boulder can be spotted and if navigated correctly, all brush can be avoided. From here a low class <5.6 trad route can be climbed. This is listed in the Ogden guide book as "Unnamed dihedral" 5.4. It extends from the base of the "toe" to the Pass or Fail ledge/ lower ledges and connects up to the 4X4 ledge.

104 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Schoolroom

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 10
Darkness on the Edge of Town
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 8
South Ridge
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 47
Phantasmagorical
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Sunday Staycation
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Bloody Sunday
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M5
 5
Lunchbox R.I.P.
Sport, Mixed
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Take an Atheist to Church
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 16
Tree Crack
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 22
Teardrops on the City
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Rocketsauce
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
The Traditionalist
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Explosivo
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Goodbye Blue Monday
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Rockprodigy
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 5
Tiny Giant
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Darkness on the Edge of Town Sunday Wall
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
South Ridge Tree Crack Area
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Phantasmagorical Ramp Routes
 47
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Sunday Staycation Sunday Wall
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bloody Sunday Sunday Wall
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Lunchbox R.I.P. Graffiti Cave
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M5 Sport, Mixed
Take an Atheist to Church Sunday Wall
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Tree Crack Tree Crack Area
 16
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Teardrops on the City Asbury Park > Gangsta' Ledge
 22
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Rocketsauce Tree Crack Area
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Traditionalist Asbury Park > Asbury Park
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Explosivo Tree Crack Area
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Goodbye Blue Monday Tree Crack Area
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rockprodigy Tree Crack Area
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Tiny Giant Asbury Park > Gangsta' Ledge
 5
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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