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Routes in Asbury Park

Badlands S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bound for Glory S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Colby's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Detroit Muscle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
E Street T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flamingo Lane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jungleland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Notion, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pocket Loverboy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rule of Three S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Stomach Your Fears S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Suicide Rap S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Thunder Road T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Traditionalist, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Eric Zschiesche and Colby Wayment
Page Views: 1,039 total, 12/month
Shared By: eric zschiesche on Sep 15, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Route Beta

The route ascends the clean sweep of orange quartzite, just to the south (right) of Thunder Road. Locate a small overhang that is @ 15 feet above the ground, and @ 15 feet right of Thunder Road. Climb through the small roof and follow a thin crack to a juggy rail. Traverse right a few feet, and climb a thin crack through a bulge to the two bolt anchors. Good gear protection is realized using small cams and midsized stoppers. Happy trails

Photos

Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
This route can be broken into 3 distinct sections:
1, a powerful set of moves to pull the overhang,
2, a tenuous, albeit fun, middle crack section, and finally,
3, an incredibly strong and cryptic set of moves to pull the final bulge followed by easy but "don't screw up" climbing to the chains.

May be a sandbag at 5.11d, using the moves from Bound for Glory (5.12b) and Pocket Loverboy (5.11c) as a comparison. Feb 25, 2015
Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT
  5.11d
Colby Wayment   Ogden, UT
  5.11d
Thanks goes to EZ for putting in a tremendous amount of time cleaning the lower section! This is probably the best trad route I've done on the schoolroom. Also, by a small margin, probably the hardest. The technical yet powerful moves keep coming at you and success won't be granted until you're staring at the chains. Dec 9, 2010