Elevation: 5,404 ft
GPS: 40.266, -111.621 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 693,388 total · 3,301/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 24, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

Description

Rock Canyon is one of my favorite climbing areas when visiting Salt Lake. It is pretty well developed now and hosts a slew of bolted and trad lines.

Overall, the climbing is significantly easier than that at American Fork Canyon. Rock Canyon holds numerous bolted routes in the 5.5 to 5.13 range and trad from 5.6 to 5.12 with the balance easier than 5.10.

There are routes sprinkled around on both sides of the canyon so it possible to chase the shade or the sun, as need demands. All of the parking is at the mouth of the canyon, so be prepared to hump.

One day, several years ago, we hiked the canyon from the mouth to the top of the plateau and it was really a gas, and did not detract from the climbing at all. It is easy to find yourself the only team at a crag, and while the vista does not come close to rivaling American Fork, the isolation can be satisfying. There is climbing adjacent to the parking, and one can take a leisurely approach just moving up canyon during the rest periods.

The rock is divided primarily between yellow and reddish quartzite closer to the mouth of the canyon, and gray limestone farther up canyon. See here for more information on the canyon's geology.

Best trip: bring a pair of ropes, a dozen draws, the trad rack, a bottle of wine, your significant other, and hiking shoes.

Local Beta

Mountainworks is the local climbing shop.

The Mountainworks crew have put up many of the routes in the local area, and Mountainworks is therefore the place to go for route recommendations and beta beyond that which appears here.

Getting There

Rock Canyon is quite a long way south of Salt Lake City and is just east of Provo.

From the north (Salt Lake City) drive south on I-15 and exit at 800 N in Orem (exit 272). Drive east until 800 N ends; take the exit right onto University Avenue. Continue south on University Avenue until 2230 N (the 7th light signal). Turn left and drive east through a residential neighborhood until the road starts to curve right (south). Turn left on N. Temple Drive (the Mormon Temple is visible just before you turn). Continue east on N. Temple through a 4-way stop sign. As the road curves to the south (right) the Rock Canyon parking will be directly ahead.

From the south exit from I-15 at University Avenue in Provo (exit 263). Continue north on University Avenue until 2230 N (the first light signal after passing BYU's football stadium on your right). Turn right and follow the rest of the directions, above.

453 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Rock Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 147
Main Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 92
Flakes
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 99
Curious George
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 168
Cosmic Space Dust Lazers
Sport 9 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 217
Green Monster
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 95
Lord of the Slings
Sport 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 84
Jawa Jam
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 80
Call it a Knight
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 131
Chupacabra
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 151
Pink Canoe
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 104
Battleship
Sport, TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 78
Black Magic Woman
Sport, TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 166
Squawstruck
Sport 22 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 82
The Bulge
Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 94
Simple Simon
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Main Crack Ed & Terry Wall
 147
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Flakes Ed & Terry Wall
 92
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Curious George George
 99
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Cosmic Space Dust Lazers Layer Cake
 168
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 9 pitches
Green Monster Green Monster Slab
 217
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Lord of the Slings Trilogy Buttress
 95
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 4 pitches
Jawa Jam Galaxy Area > Tatooine
 84
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Call it a Knight Ed & Terry Wall
 80
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Chupacabra Wild
 131
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pink Canoe Black Rose
 151
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Battleship Tinker Toys
 104
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Black Magic Woman Black Rose
 78
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
Squawstruck Squaw Peak
 166
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 22 pitches
The Bulge Appendage
 82
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
Simple Simon Super Bowl Wall
 94
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
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