Elevation: 5,404 ft
GPS: 40.266, -111.621 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 495,430 total · 2,560/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 24, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Today
71°F - 53°F 22°C - 12°C
Tue
71°F - 55°F 22°C - 13°C
Wed
74°F - 55°F 23°C - 13°C
Thu
71°F - 50°F 22°C - 10°C
Fri
60°F - 42°F 16°C - 6°C
Sat
58°F - 45°F 14°C - 7°C
Sun
67°F - 52°F 19°C - 11°C

Description

Rock Canyon is one of my favorite climbing areas when visiting Salt Lake. It is pretty well developed now and hosts a slew of bolted and trad lines.

Overall, the climbing is significantly easier than that at American Fork Canyon. Rock Canyon holds numerous bolted routes in the 5.5 to 5.13 range and trad from 5.6 to 5.12 with the balance easier than 5.10.

There are routes sprinkled around on both sides of the canyon so it possible to chase the shade or the sun, as need demands. All of the parking is at the mouth of the canyon, so be prepared to hump.

One day, several years ago, we hiked the canyon from the mouth to the top of the plateau and it was really a gas, and did not detract from the climbing at all. It is easy to find yourself the only team at a crag, and while the vista does not come close to rivaling American Fork, the isolation can be satisfying. There is climbing adjacent to the parking, and one can take a leisurely approach just moving up canyon during the rest periods.

The rock is divided primarily between yellow and reddish quartzite closer to the mouth of the canyon, and gray limestone farther up canyon. See here for more information on the canyon's geology.

Best trip: bring a pair of ropes, a dozen draws, the trad rack, a bottle of wine, your significant other, and hiking shoes.

Local Beta

Mountainworks is the local climbing shop.

The Mountainworks crew have put up many of the routes in the local area, and Mountainworks is therefore the place to go for route recommendations and beta beyond that which appears here.

Getting There

Rock Canyon is quite a long way south of Salt Lake City and is just east of Provo.

From the north (Salt Lake City) drive south on I-15 and exit at 800 N in Orem (exit 272). Drive east until 800 N ends; take the exit right onto University Avenue. Continue south on University Avenue until 2230 N (the 7th light signal). Turn left and drive east through a residential neighborhood until the road starts to curve right (south). Turn left on N. Temple Drive (the Mormon Temple is visible just before you turn). Continue east on N. Temple through a 4-way stop sign. As the road curves to the south (right) the Rock Canyon parking will be directly ahead.

From the south exit from I-15 at University Avenue in Provo (exit 263). Continue north on University Avenue until 2230 N (the first light signal after passing BYU's football stadium on your right). Turn right and follow the rest of the directions, above.

433 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Rock Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 148
Call of the Wild
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 125
Main Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 77
Flakes
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 133
Cosmic Space Dust Lazers
Sport 9 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 80
Curious George
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 184
Green Monster
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 78
Green Jello
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 68
Jawa Jam
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 65
Call it a Knight
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 106
Chupacabra
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 127
Pink Canoe
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 90
Battleship
Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 77
The Bulge
Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 80
Simple Simon
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 134
Squawstruck
Sport 22 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Call of the Wild Wild
 148
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Main Crack Ed & Terry Wall
 125
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Flakes Ed & Terry Wall
 77
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Cosmic Space Dust Lazers Layer Cake
 133
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport 9 pitches
Curious George George
 80
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Green Monster Green Monster Slab
 184
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Green Jello Green Monster Slab
 78
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches
Jawa Jam Galaxy Area > Tatooine
 68
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Call it a Knight Ed & Terry Wall
 65
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Chupacabra Wild
 106
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pink Canoe Black Rose
 127
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Battleship Tinker Toys
 90
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
The Bulge Appendage
 77
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
Simple Simon Super Bowl Wall
 80
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Squawstruck Squaw Peak
 134
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 22 pitches
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