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Areas in Joe's Valley

Ice 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Left Fork 0 / 0 / 0 / 127 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 127
New Joe's 0 / 0 / 0 / 121 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 121
Right Fork 0 / 0 / 1 / 215 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 215

Description

Joe's Valley is one of the world's premier bouldering destinations. The sandstone boulders that line the hillsides are seemingly made for climbing: the rock is textured but skin-friendly, it's featured yet strong, and the landings are generally fantastic. Approaches are almost all 5 minutes or less, and many of the most popular boulders are just a stone's throw from the car.

There are hundreds of established boulder problems at the various areas within Joe's Valley, and yet a quick glance at the innumerable boulders farther up the hills hint at even more untapped potetntial for world-class bouldering.

While there are problems of every grade at Joe's, it is my impression that the best experience will be had at V4 and above.

Getting There

Joe's Valley is just outside of the town of Orangeville, UT. Take Hwy. 29 west out of Orangeville. Shortly after leaving town you can either take a right onto Route 57 to go to New Joe's, or you can keep going straight until the road branches into the Left and Right forks.

Driving time is around 2 hours from SLC, 6-7 hours from the Front Range in Colorado, 14 from Portland, etc.

Food and Supplies

There are a handful of stores in Orangeville, but the best place to go for food is the Food Barn. They even have copies of the Utah Bouldering guide in case you forgot to pick it up before heading out.

Also, as of 2017 If you are looking for coffee and WIFI the best place to go is Cup Of Joe's. Located right around the corner from the Food Ranch this small coffee shop is a great place to get amazing hot or cold drinks. The proprietor has converted a space in their house into a quaint little coffee shop with tables, couches and good high speed internet.

Camping

There are 3 main areas that are well-suited for camping at Joe's. Two are in the Right Fork at .9 miles up and 2.4 miles up (the first being at the Man Size area, the second at the Boux area)-- both are on the left. The third campground is 1.2 miles up the Left Fork.

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
GBek  
Does anyone know if you can still get the guide book at Food Ranch? And/Or

Is this website legit?
markhorclimbing.com/2011/09…

I've also heard there is a new guidebook being worked on. Any word how close that is?

Thanks for the help! Jul 23, 2015
Jake Vita
East Los Angeles, CA
Jake Vita   East Los Angeles, CA
Heading to Joe's Valley October 18th-20th/21st before hitting Zion. Anyone interested in meeting up for some bouldering? First time visiting, looking forward to exploring given weather is permitting. Sep 25, 2017
Eric Carlos
Chattanooga, TN
Eric Carlos   Chattanooga, TN
There is also free wifi at the new coffee shop in Orangeville called Cup of Joe's. Great coffee and super friendly family running the place. They don't mind if you fill up water from the spigot right out front, any time of the day or night. Apr 30, 2017
mwho
SLC, UT
mwho   SLC, UT
I found a pair of sunglasses at the Sandbox boulder in left fork this past Saturday March 11th. Message me with a description of them, and we'll figure out a way to get them back to you. Mar 13, 2017
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
Yeah, Camping is still free and can be found all along the Right Fork and driving in to New Joe's. Please do not climb after rain and give the rock plenty of time to dry out. Also if nature calls, use a wag bag or the outhouse along the road to New Joes, or back in Orangeville. There is also free wifi at the library. Nov 1, 2016
is there still free camping available in joe's or have they started charging climbers yet? the last relevant post i could find on this was 2010 didn't want to be surprised when we showed up. thanks for any help!!! Dec 24, 2015
LEC
LEC  
Climbed with some ladies from Boulder by the riverside boulder this weekend and a pink Columbia vest was left behind! I knew that was your last stop and we were there a while after you, so hopefully you'll see this and I can get that thing mailed to ya. Nov 10, 2015
Hey there, I'm heading to Joe's with some friends from Thursday (11/5) until Sunday aka this coming weekend.

Would anyone be willing to let us borrow a guidebook? Cheapest ones we can find for sale are like $100+ and the new one isn't out yet. We'd gladly buy you a couple beers or something for your help.

DM me if you can help out.

Thanks!
JD Nov 3, 2015
I am hoping to make a trip out to joes valley the first 2nd week of march, would there be too much snow and bad weather or would that be a good time to go. If the weather is usually too bad at that time and recommendations as to somewhere else where the weather will be milder? Oct 6, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
For those wondering, this is the Facebook page for the new guidebook that will hopefully be coming out soon. It's being written in part by Steven Jefferey so it should be pretty good and pretty accurate, and a significant improvement over the Caldiero guide. The samples looks great.

facebook.com/Joes-Valley-Bo… Sep 22, 2015
D B
Denver
D B   Denver
Go to the American Alpine Club Library in Golden and you can take pictures of the guidebooks they have.

I've heard of a PDF of A Bouldering Guide to Utah floating around. I don't have it (but would be grateful if someone emailed me a copy :) ) Sep 22, 2015
Ben
Ben  
@ GBek - I was at Joe's (for the first time...awesome!) last week and can tell you the Food Ranch does NOT have any copies of the guide book. I managed to navigate pretty well with the help of mountain project but would be extremely interested in information related to when/if an updated book would be available. Sep 1, 2015
Anyone interested in selling their Joe's valley guidebook? just discovered it is out of print and the family and I are headed there in a couple weeks... anyone have any suggestions? We will be heading thru Denver on our way there... maybe someone wants to make some cash to pay for their new guidebook this fall :) Apr 6, 2015
Thanks to the American Alpine Club Cornerstone Grant, the Access Fund Conservation Grant, those who contributed to the fundraisers that the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance and the Boulder Climbing Coalition put together, and to two dedicated consultants Jeff Porucznik and Jonathan Knight, the SLCA would like to share this Joe's Valley Recreation Impact Assessment.

LINK:
saltlakeclimbers.org/wp-con…

The climbing community will be asked to bring funds to the table for improvements at Joe's Valley based on the findings and recommendations in this assessment. The BLM and USFS are conducting an Environmental Assessment of this area that the Joe's Valley Recreation Impact Assessment will help to advise. Please stay tuned and in the meantime, please follow good climbing ethics and protect Joe's Valley climbing. vimeo.com/110185527 Nov 18, 2014


1st Annual Joe’s Valley, Utah Adopt a Crag Saturday April 5th a Success!

Work gloves and coffee cups in hand, thirty rock climbers gathered last Saturday, April 5th at the Man Size camp in Joe’s Valley ready to give back to this increasingly popular rock climbing destination. The Food Ranch in Orangeville kicked off the work day with their donation of amazing donuts and coffee.

The Bureau of Land Management and Forest Service worked alongside climbers putting in 200 hours of work. Volunteers eliminated superfluous fire rings and removed at least a thousand pounds of ash from the Man Size Camp fire pits. In an attempt to curb camp site creep, parking areas and campsites were delineated. Two informational kiosks were installed to educate climbers about how to use Joe’s Valley responsibly to protect the watershed. Brats and brews were shared after the work with a BBQ provided by backcountry.com Detour and Shades of Pale Brewing Company. Leave No Trace was even on hand to discuss LNT principles to help climbers enjoy Joe’s Valley responsibly.

The climbing resources that exist in Joe’s Valley lie within both Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and United States Forest Service (FS) jurisdiction and are located in the watershed of Emery County. The Access Fund and Salt Lake Climbers Alliance have brought these land managers to the table along with local Emery County officials and Utah Tourism partners. The goal of this partnership is to enhance and protect access to the rock climbing resources while being good environmental stewards of the watershed.

The 1st Annual Joe’s Valley Adopt a Crag was a success, however Man Size Camp is but one area in Joe’s Valley in need of stewardship and climbers need to invest in the future of this area. The Access Fund and the American Alpine Club have granted the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance with funding to do a “Joe’s Valley Informal Trails, Disperse Campsites, and Bouldering Recreation Site Assessment”. This assessment was requested by the land management agencies and will advise resource planning for the future. The assessment allows climbers to influence how the climbing resources will be managed and gives ownership to climbers of a well-loved Joe’s Valley.

Please get involved with this effort by becoming a member of the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance and the Access Fund at saltlakeclimbers.org/member…. Membership dollars go towards future Adopt a Crags as well as to help fund the seasonal port-o-potties that the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance has provided at $2500/year for the past six years.

Thanks to all who came out to give their time and muscles to this Adopt a Crag. Stay tuned for upcoming Adopt a Crags happening in the Wasatch by LIKING the SLCA Facebook page and staying up to date at saltlakeclimbers.org.
See you on the rock!

Julia Geisler
SLCA Executive Director




May 30, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Leeanne- climbing might be tolerable in the shade, particularly in the morning and evening, and up in Dairy Canyon since it's a bit higher in elevation.

Climbing in the sun is likely going to be brutal. Temperatures will likely be in the upper 80's to low 90's. Apr 19, 2014
Leeanne
Denver, CO
Leeanne   Denver, CO
Is beginning of August way too hot? Apr 19, 2014
Rain  
Anybody know if there's a good place to get wi-fi and a charge in Orangeville? I'm a traveling designer and really want to come back to Joe's for a few months this Fall, but I rely on my laptop based tech job to keep my dog and I alive. Kind of an odd question I'll admit, so if anyone has beta I'm grateful.

Update: There's wi-fi at the Food Ranch Sep 19, 2013
JSirley  
Was at right fork yesterday the access and parking was okay but the slopes feel pretty loose and a bunch of the camping spots are now wash outs. The left fork was still closed as of last night. New joes seems to be untouched just a few trails washed out. Thanks for the beta BD guy. Sep 15, 2013
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
  • WEATHER*
You can find spots to climb in Joe's Valley YEAR ROUND, especially with the recent developments up in Dairy Canyon, where the elevation is around 8,500 ft.

Climbing Dec-Feb is very possible. Some weeks temps are in the 50's and it's all dry, some weeks are below freezing with snow everywhere.

Best time to go is March to May and then again around September through November depending on snow.

I don't really like going in April since all the spring breakers swarm the area, and my favorite time to go is late fall. Apr 29, 2013
Jake Charland
Boulder, CO
Jake Charland   Boulder, CO
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
The guidebook is sold at the Food Ranch in Orangeville (like 10 mins from Joe's). Mar 31, 2013
Sean Denny
Irvine
Sean Denny   Irvine
Hey guys,

I'm headed out here Apr 6th for a week or so. I don't have time to wait for the guidebook to come in the mail, is it sold somewhere in town?

Thanks! Mar 30, 2013
user id
Ogden, Utah
user id   Ogden, Utah
db-

While beer is always a plus, I haven't had a drink in Utah under 6% in years? JS has one good point, a kind offering of any nature will take the sting out of stuffing you into someone's already packed car?

The camping is about 2 to 3 miles from town.
The camping is at the climbing.
The vibe/crowd is great, just a few douchebags from avon?

I don't believe you'll have any problems at all? Meeting good folks down there is easy. The earlier/later you go the better, in the summer its a bit of a ghost town.

When are you thinking of going? I don't quite have the free time I used too, but if I'm down there when you are? I'll help zip you around. Mar 16, 2013
JJNS  
If you bring a bunch of full strength beer I'm sure you will have no problems. Mar 15, 2013
db2882  
I am looking at doing an extended trip to Joes Valley (3ish weeks) and I would not have a car. I had a few questions to see if this might be possible.

How close is the camping to town?
How close is the camping to the climbing?
What is the vibe/crowd like in early april? Would it be easy to meet people to climb with and go into town with?

These may be stupid questions, but I would love to hear from some one who knows the area better if they thing this it is possible to do. Mar 7, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
If you want a better chance of warmer weather and less snow (both on the ground and potentially falling from the sky), go in Mid-April. Mid-March can still be pretty hit or miss regarding the weather. The good thing about going in mid-April is that even if it's on the warm side, you can always find thins in the shade and/or go to higher elevations like Dairy Canyon. Hope that helps. Jan 10, 2013
I want to go to Joes/Ibex/Triassic in mid-March or should I go mid-April?
I have to book holidays and I want more sun than snow/rain. What do you suppose locals, is the better choice?
THANKS!! Jan 8, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Honestly, it all depends on the year. I've climbed in January with no snow on the ground in some years, while other years you're post holing through 3 feet of snow. I would keep an eye on the webcams for the area (google it!) and see how things are playing out. If it's relatively snow free on the ground, go for it. As long as you're in the sun, you'll most likely be warm enough. If it gets too cold or snowy, bail to Moab or St. George. Camping will be cold though... Oct 20, 2012
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
@ Hoboken
Depending on the winter we're having, YES, you can absolutely go and camp in the winter.

I was there on new year's and temps never dipped below freezing at night, and during the day in the sun it felt around 60 degrees. T-shirt weather no problem

Some winter nights can definitely be miserable though, so always keep an eye on weather. Sep 12, 2012
Kent Dunham
Alberta
Kent Dunham   Alberta
I just got back from a trip to Joe's and I found Isaac's guidebook to be great (a million times better than anything else out there) as far as getting you to the areas and boulders. The pictures are great and do the rock justice. Some of the grades seemed off, A few route descriptions are not accurate (like Resident Evil) and there are some funny spelling mistakes (it's "Remnants" not "remnence) but I found that easy to ignore. The only thing I hate about it is the move-by-move beta description for each climb. I believe a proper guidebook should have clear description of start holds, finish and the line followed, nothing more.

I also noticed a lot of other climbers with the guide and no one was burning thier copy, so it can't be all bad Apr 11, 2012
Jon Lachelt
Fort Collins, CO
Jon Lachelt   Fort Collins, CO
Knight, why is the new guidebook no good?

I'm heading there for my first trip, so I don't have any way to evaluate other than how it looks. Apr 11, 2012
Kent Dunham
Alberta
Kent Dunham   Alberta
Isaac's new guide is available at joesvalleyguidebook.com

pretty good I'd say. Feb 28, 2012
@ Wude72 - How do I order the Joe's guide off MarkHor Climbing? Clicking add to cart doesn't do anything. Can't find it anywhere else. Feb 16, 2012
Hoboken  
Hey does anyone know how the temps are late December? is it possible to climb and camp during that time? Nov 20, 2011
wude72  
Isaacs new guide book has excellent info in it. Pretty cool book too.
markhorclimbing.com/2011/09… Oct 27, 2011
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
Does anyone know how the bouldering conditions are in December/January...?
trying to make a ski/climbing trip this winter. Nov 26, 2010
Eckhard
Denver, CO
Eckhard   Denver, CO
I hear (&see as posted) October is great at Joe's, but what about Mid to Late September? too hot? just right early morning late afternoon? or shady spots of canyon? Any beta the Sept weather would be sweet: thanks! Sep 1, 2010
EChristensen
Bozeman
EChristensen   Bozeman
Anyone know about access to the Innumerables? Is it okay to climb there? If so, where do you park? Apr 6, 2010
October is great. Average 50-70 degrees. Great friction. Jul 22, 2009
willo schubarth
Colorado Springs, CO
willo schubarth   Colorado Springs, CO
I would recommend the Video Guide to Joe's Valley a film by Nathan Cando, it goes through 28 of the classic problems and also a guidebook that plays during the movie. Found wherever climbing videos are available. Jan 21, 2009
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
Here are some more detailed directions to get to Joe's Valley for ice climbing. These directions are from SLC.

Take the Spanish Fork exit (258?) off of I-15 to US-6, like going to Moab. Take the second Price exit to Hwy 10. Follow for 22 miles to Huntington. Continue for another 6 miles to the sign that indicates Joe's Valley on the right. This is Hwy 29. Follow this until the "T" intersection, and bear right. Follow this into Straight Canyon, and eventually to the reservoir. Most of the ice is in Straight Canyon, with some more up by the reservoir.

Also, here is a link to a remote weather station in Joe's Valley.
met.utah.edu/cgi-bin/droman….
You can view weather history, up to 30 days. However, the station is located at 8000 feet. Keep this in mind when making the decision whether to head down or not. Dec 11, 2006

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