Elevation: 6,340 ft
GPS: 39.277, -111.174 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,066,997 total · 6,307/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Oct 30, 2006 with 6 Suggestions
Admins: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

Description

Joe's Valley is one of the world's premier bouldering destinations. The sandstone boulders that line the hillsides are seemingly made for climbing: the rock is textured but skin-friendly, it's featured yet strong, and the landings are generally fantastic. Approaches are almost all 5 minutes or less, and many of the most popular boulders are just a stone's throw from the car.

There are hundreds of established boulder problems at the various areas within Joe's Valley, and yet a quick glance at the innumerable boulders farther up the hills hint at even more untapped potetntial for world-class bouldering.

While there are problems of every grade at Joe's, it is my impression that the best experience will be had at V4 and above.

Getting There

Joe's Valley is just outside of the town of Orangeville, UT. Take Hwy. 29 west out of Orangeville. Shortly after leaving town you can either take a right onto Route 57 to go to New Joe's, or you can keep going straight until the road branches into the Left and Right forks.

Driving time is around 2 hours from SLC, 6-7 hours from the Front Range in Colorado, 14 from Portland, etc.

Food and Supplies

There are a handful of stores in Orangeville. Food Ranch (reopened as of August 2020) is in Orangeville proper, and the next nearest grocery store is Stewart's in Castle Dale. Also, as of 2017 If you are looking for coffee and WiFi the best place to go is Cup Of Joe's. Located right around the corner from the Food Ranch this small coffee shop is a great place to get amazing hot or cold drinks. Cup Of Joe's will also AirDrop you a PDF copy of the Isaac Caldiero Joe's Valley guidebook, or rent out crash pads if you need them. The proprietor has converted a space in their house into a quaint little coffee shop with tables, couches and good high speed internet.

Camping

There are 4 main areas that are well-suited for camping at Joe's. Two are in the Right Fork at .9 miles up and 2.4 miles up (the first being at the Man Size area, the second at the Boux area). The third campground is 1.2 miles up the Left Fork. And finally, the fourth campground is at New Joe's, about 10 minutes up Route 57 on the right side. You can usually see the vault toilets from the road.

Bathrooms and coin operated showers have been installed in Orangeville Park, across the street from Cup of Joe's. Permanent bathrooms also available in left fork at the Halloween town parking area (kayak pullout) and New Joe's just past the info kiosk.

622 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Joe's Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 516
The Angler
Boulder
V3 6A R
 74
Michelangelo
Boulder
V5 6C
 90
Frosted Flakes
Boulder
V5 6C
 102
Rug Rat
Boulder
V5 6C
 299
Kill by Numbers
Boulder
V5 6C
 81
Proppa Dyno
Boulder
V6 7A
 248
Wills Afire
Boulder
V6 7A
 130
Low Tide
Boulder
V6 7A
 74
Maxipad
Boulder
V6 7A
 114
Vertical Ice
Boulder
V6 7A
 123
Great White
Boulder
V7- 7A+
 214
Planet of the Apes
Boulder
V7 7A+
 221
Chips
Boulder
V7 7A+
 92
Bring the Heatwole
Boulder
V7 7A+
 111
Baldwin Bash
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Angler Left Fork > Riverside Boulders
 516
V2 5+ Boulder
Michelangelo Right Fork > Man Size
 74
V3 6A R Boulder
Frosted Flakes Right Fork > Hulk
 90
V5 6C Boulder
Rug Rat Right Fork > UMWA Boulder
 102
V5 6C Boulder
Kill by Numbers Left Fork > Mine Cart Area
 299
V5 6C Boulder
Proppa Dyno Right Fork > Perimeter
 81
V5 6C Boulder
Wills Afire Left Fork > Right Sign Area
 248
V6 7A Boulder
Low Tide Left Fork > Riverside Boulders
 130
V6 7A Boulder
Maxipad Right Fork > Dark Canyon
 74
V6 7A Boulder
Vertical Ice Right Fork > Dairy Canyon
 114
V6 7A Boulder
Great White Right Fork > Man Size
 123
V6 7A Boulder
Planet of the Apes New Joe's > Chip & Dale
 214
V7- 7A+ Boulder
Chips New Joe's > Chip & Dale
 221
V7 7A+ Boulder
Bring the Heatwole Left Fork > Eden > Heat Wall
 92
V7 7A+ Boulder
Baldwin Bash Right Fork > Dairy Canyon
 111
V7 7A+ Boulder
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