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| Elevation: | 6,340 ft |
| GPS: | 39.277, -111.174 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 628,015 total · 4,278/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Franzen on Oct 30, 2006 |
| Admins: | Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Description
Joe's Valley is one of the world's premier bouldering destinations. The sandstone boulders that line the hillsides are seemingly made for climbing: the rock is textured but skin-friendly, it's featured yet strong, and the landings are generally fantastic. Approaches are almost all 5 minutes or less, and many of the most popular boulders are just a stone's throw from the car.
There are hundreds of established boulder problems at the various areas within Joe's Valley, and yet a quick glance at the innumerable boulders farther up the hills hint at even more untapped potetntial for world-class bouldering.
While there are problems of every grade at Joe's, it is my impression that the best experience will be had at V4 and above.
There are hundreds of established boulder problems at the various areas within Joe's Valley, and yet a quick glance at the innumerable boulders farther up the hills hint at even more untapped potetntial for world-class bouldering.
While there are problems of every grade at Joe's, it is my impression that the best experience will be had at V4 and above.
Getting There
Joe's Valley is just outside of the town of Orangeville, UT. Take Hwy. 29 west out of Orangeville. Shortly after leaving town you can either take a right onto Route 57 to go to New Joe's, or you can keep going straight until the road branches into the Left and Right forks.
Driving time is around 2 hours from SLC, 6-7 hours from the Front Range in Colorado, 14 from Portland, etc.
Driving time is around 2 hours from SLC, 6-7 hours from the Front Range in Colorado, 14 from Portland, etc.
Food and Supplies
There are a handful of stores in Orangeville, but the best place to go for food is the Food Ranch. They even have copies of the Utah Bouldering guide in case you forgot to pick it up before heading out.
Also, as of 2017 If you are looking for coffee and WIFI the best place to go is Cup Of Joe's. Located right around the corner from the Food Ranch this small coffee shop is a great place to get amazing hot or cold drinks. The proprietor has converted a space in their house into a quaint little coffee shop with tables, couches and good high speed internet.
Also, as of 2017 If you are looking for coffee and WIFI the best place to go is Cup Of Joe's. Located right around the corner from the Food Ranch this small coffee shop is a great place to get amazing hot or cold drinks. The proprietor has converted a space in their house into a quaint little coffee shop with tables, couches and good high speed internet.
Camping
There are 3 main areas that are well-suited for camping at Joe's. Two are in the Right Fork at .9 miles up and 2.4 miles up (the first being at the Man Size area, the second at the Boux area)-- both are on the left. The third campground is 1.2 miles up the Left Fork.
Bathrooms and coin operated showers have been installed in Orangeville park across the street from cup of joes. Permanent bathrooms also available in left fork at the Halloween town parking area (kayak pullout) and new joes just past the info kiosk
Bathrooms and coin operated showers have been installed in Orangeville park across the street from cup of joes. Permanent bathrooms also available in left fork at the Halloween town parking area (kayak pullout) and new joes just past the info kiosk
Classic Climbing Routes at Joe's Valley
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
50 Comments
More About Joe's Valley
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Guidebooks (6)
Spokane, WA
Take the Spanish Fork exit (258?) off of I-15 to US-6, like going to Moab. Take the second Price exit to Hwy 10. Follow for 22 miles to Huntington. Continue for another 6 miles to the sign that indicates Joe's Valley on the right. This is Hwy 29. Follow this until the "T" intersection, and bear right. Follow this into Straight Canyon, and eventually to the reservoir. Most of the ice is in Straight Canyon, with some more up by the reservoir.
Also, here is a link to a remote weather station in Joe's Valley.
met.utah.edu/cgi-bin/droman….
You can view weather history, up to 30 days. However, the station is located at 8000 feet. Keep this in mind when making the decision whether to head down or not. Dec 11, 2006
Colorado Springs, CO
Bozeman
Denver, CO
Casper, WY
trying to make a ski/climbing trip this winter. Nov 26, 2010
markhorclimbing.com/2011/09… Oct 27, 2011
Alberta
pretty good I'd say. Feb 28, 2012
Fort Collins, CO
I'm heading there for my first trip, so I don't have any way to evaluate other than how it looks. Apr 11, 2012
Alberta
I also noticed a lot of other climbers with the guide and no one was burning thier copy, so it can't be all bad Apr 11, 2012
Casper, WY
Depending on the winter we're having, YES, you can absolutely go and camp in the winter.
I was there on new year's and temps never dipped below freezing at night, and during the day in the sun it felt around 60 degrees. T-shirt weather no problem
Some winter nights can definitely be miserable though, so always keep an eye on weather. Sep 12, 2012
Telluride, CO
I have to book holidays and I want more sun than snow/rain. What do you suppose locals, is the better choice?
THANKS!! Jan 8, 2013
Telluride, CO
How close is the camping to town?
How close is the camping to the climbing?
What is the vibe/crowd like in early april? Would it be easy to meet people to climb with and go into town with?
These may be stupid questions, but I would love to hear from some one who knows the area better if they thing this it is possible to do. Mar 7, 2013
SMOGden, UT
While beer is always a plus, I haven't had a drink in Utah under 6% in years? JS has one good point, a kind offering of any nature will take the sting out of stuffing you into someone's already packed car?
The camping is about 2 to 3 miles from town.
The camping is at the climbing.
The vibe/crowd is great, just a few douchebags from avon?
I don't believe you'll have any problems at all? Meeting good folks down there is easy. The earlier/later you go the better, in the summer its a bit of a ghost town.
When are you thinking of going? I don't quite have the free time I used too, but if I'm down there when you are? I'll help zip you around. Mar 16, 2013
Irvine
I'm headed out here Apr 6th for a week or so. I don't have time to wait for the guidebook to come in the mail, is it sold somewhere in town?
Thanks! Mar 30, 2013
Telluride, CO
Boulder, CO
Casper, WY
- WEATHER*
You can find spots to climb in Joe's Valley YEAR ROUND, especially with the recent developments up in Dairy Canyon, where the elevation is around 8,500 ft.Climbing Dec-Feb is very possible. Some weeks temps are in the 50's and it's all dry, some weeks are below freezing with snow everywhere.
Best time to go is March to May and then again around September through November depending on snow.
I don't really like going in April since all the spring breakers swarm the area, and my favorite time to go is late fall. Apr 29, 2013
Update: There's wi-fi at the Food Ranch Sep 19, 2013
Denver, CO
Telluride, CO
Climbing in the sun is likely going to be brutal. Temperatures will likely be in the upper 80's to low 90's. Apr 19, 2014
1st Annual Joes Valley, Utah Adopt a Crag Saturday April 5th a Success!
Work gloves and coffee cups in hand, thirty rock climbers gathered last Saturday, April 5th at the Man Size camp in Joes Valley ready to give back to this increasingly popular rock climbing destination. The Food Ranch in Orangeville kicked off the work day with their donation of amazing donuts and coffee.
The Bureau of Land Management and Forest Service worked alongside climbers putting in 200 hours of work. Volunteers eliminated superfluous fire rings and removed at least a thousand pounds of ash from the Man Size Camp fire pits. In an attempt to curb camp site creep, parking areas and campsites were delineated. Two informational kiosks were installed to educate climbers about how to use Joes Valley responsibly to protect the watershed. Brats and brews were shared after the work with a BBQ provided by backcountry.com Detour and Shades of Pale Brewing Company. Leave No Trace was even on hand to discuss LNT principles to help climbers enjoy Joes Valley responsibly.
The climbing resources that exist in Joes Valley lie within both Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and United States Forest Service (FS) jurisdiction and are located in the watershed of Emery County. The Access Fund and Salt Lake Climbers Alliance have brought these land managers to the table along with local Emery County officials and Utah Tourism partners. The goal of this partnership is to enhance and protect access to the rock climbing resources while being good environmental stewards of the watershed.
The 1st Annual Joes Valley Adopt a Crag was a success, however Man Size Camp is but one area in Joes Valley in need of stewardship and climbers need to invest in the future of this area. The Access Fund and the American Alpine Club have granted the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance with funding to do a Joes Valley Informal Trails, Disperse Campsites, and Bouldering Recreation Site Assessment. This assessment was requested by the land management agencies and will advise resource planning for the future. The assessment allows climbers to influence how the climbing resources will be managed and gives ownership to climbers of a well-loved Joes Valley.
Please get involved with this effort by becoming a member of the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance and the Access Fund atsaltlakeclimbers.org/member…. Membership dollars go towards future Adopt a Crags as well as to help fund the seasonal port-o-potties that the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance has provided at $2500/year for the past six years.
Thanks to all who came out to give their time and muscles to this Adopt a Crag. Stay tuned for upcoming Adopt a Crags happening in the Wasatch by LIKING the SLCA Facebook page and staying up to date atsaltlakeclimbers.org.
See you on the rock!
Julia Geisler
SLCA Executive Director
Trois-Rivières, QC
LINK:
saltlakeclimbers.org/wp-con…
The climbing community will be asked to bring funds to the table for improvements at Joe's Valley based on the findings and recommendations in this assessment. The BLM and USFS are conducting an Environmental Assessment of this area that the Joe's Valley Recreation Impact Assessment will help to advise. Please stay tuned and in the meantime, please follow good climbing ethics and protect Joe's Valley climbing. vimeo.com/110185527 Nov 18, 2014
Is this website legit?
markhorclimbing.com/2011/09…
I've also heard there is a new guidebook being worked on. Any word how close that is?
Thanks for the help! Jul 23, 2015
I've heard of a PDF of A Bouldering Guide to Utah floating around. I don't have it (but would be grateful if someone emailed me a copy :) ) Sep 22, 2015
Telluride, CO
facebook.com/Joes-Valley-Bo… Sep 22, 2015
Would anyone be willing to let us borrow a guidebook? Cheapest ones we can find for sale are like $100+ and the new one isn't out yet. We'd gladly buy you a couple beers or something for your help.
DM me if you can help out.
Thanks!
JD Nov 3, 2015
Portland
Lander, WY
SLC, UT
Chattanooga, TN
East Los Angeles, CA
Springville, UT
Airbnb/orangeville/hangout Jan 16, 2018
FREE WIFI
GORGOUS PLACE!!
Showers/Jetted Tub
Shuttle
Satellite TV Sports
Kitchen to prep meals
Message and yoga
Come HANGOUT and look us up on Airbnb/orangeville/Hangout Jan 17, 2018
Philadelphia, PA