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Routes in Heat Wall
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Bring the Heatwole V7 7A+ |
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Near Beers V5 6C |
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Nearly Swole V6 7A |
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| Type: | Boulder, 10 ft (3 m) |
| FA: | Rocco Bocchicchio |
| Page Views: | 8,119 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | tcamillieri on Nov 8, 2009 |
| Admins: | Aeon Aki, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Don't climb on wet rock!
Details
Attention:
Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-
climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo…
and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.
Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-
climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo…
and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.
Description
Start low on underclings, climb up and right through a big hueco. Move right using pinches, bust right to a big sidepull. Finish on edges.
Beta: Begin on the underclings low and left in the roof. Right foot up, and bump right hand to the high part of the good undercling. Kneebar and slap around the arete. Right hand gaston and left toe hook to release the kneebar. Match the gaston and set right foot on the aforementioned undercling. Then bust out right to a good juggy sidepull match the pinch and get the left hand back into the pocket. Kneebar again and reach right hand up to a decent pocket. Left foot back step by right and do a hard move to a crimp on the face. Left foot up on the pinch and rock the weight over until you can stand up.
Crux is doing the big move out right to the good sidepull and doing the hard move to bring the left hand in from there. Goes straight up the crimps from there.
John Gass sends Bring the Heatwole here: Joes Valley 1 from John Gass on Vimeo.
Beta: Begin on the underclings low and left in the roof. Right foot up, and bump right hand to the high part of the good undercling. Kneebar and slap around the arete. Right hand gaston and left toe hook to release the kneebar. Match the gaston and set right foot on the aforementioned undercling. Then bust out right to a good juggy sidepull match the pinch and get the left hand back into the pocket. Kneebar again and reach right hand up to a decent pocket. Left foot back step by right and do a hard move to a crimp on the face. Left foot up on the pinch and rock the weight over until you can stand up.
Crux is doing the big move out right to the good sidepull and doing the hard move to bring the left hand in from there. Goes straight up the crimps from there.
John Gass sends Bring the Heatwole here: Joes Valley 1 from John Gass on Vimeo.
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