Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,782 total · 66/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

162 Opinions

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Classic dyno.

Start on the Best Pocket in the World (tm) and a good sidepull, set your feet on the convenient edge, and fire for a perfect jug at the lip.

Perfect rock and a perfect landing means you can try it over and over again.


The main overhanging face at the Anarchy boulders.


Aeon Aki    
This is a much more difficult dyno if the edge happens to be inconvenient and you're forced to use higher footholds. Don't overgrip on the starting pocket or you might find yourself short of some finger flesh. Mar 30, 2007
Dan Dalton
Boulder, CO
Dan Dalton   Boulder, CO
Did this a few months back, seems to be very height dependant, can be a V3 if you are tall and a V6 is you are small.

Dan Jun 7, 2007
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Height dependent indeed, but cool problem none the less. Jul 29, 2007
AdamB Bunger
Chattanooga, TN
AdamB Bunger   Chattanooga, TN
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra
No send this trip. But will come back! Cool single move Nov 3, 2012
St George, UT
Kendall   St George, UT
One-move-wonder to easy top-out. Book says it's a 7 but with basic dyno know-how and a bit of lank, V4 boulderers can easily send this guy. Sep 29, 2013
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
In the original, stapled paper, brown cover little bitty guide from the mid 90s, this was rated V6, but as everyone says the rating is almost meaningless as it's just a long huck between good holds. Jul 6, 2015
not meaningless, just height dependent Jul 9, 2016