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Areas in New Joe's

88+ 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Anarchy 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Area 51 0 / 0 / 0 / 32 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32
Bone Garden 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Bridge Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Cable Grind Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Chip and Dale 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Closet, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Joes Squeeze 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Limbo and Tsunami 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Nerve Damage 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Parking Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Pitbull 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Playtime is Over, Space Chubby, Salsa Verde, The Edge 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Road Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Self Service 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Tang Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Elevation: 7,126 ft
GPS: 39.31, -111.116 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 82,449 total, 609/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

New Joe's is a hillside/canyon a few miles away from the Left and Right forks with a whole bunch of quality boulders. Area 51 is the most accessable and most popular area, but there is a lot more up there just a short walk away. Be sure to scope out Nerve Damage and Pocket Rocket.

Please please please: don't camp up at New Joe's. It's on private property (I'm assuming it's either the Texaco subsidiary or the coal mine), so treat it with respect.

Getting There

Follow Route 29 out of Orangeville and take a right on Route 57 North. Follow this for 3.3 miles and take a right on a dirt road, just after a huge rock pile on the right. Follow this dirt road up to a large parking lot with an oil rig in the middle. The trail up to the various areas starts at the back of the parking lot by the sign.

122 Total Climbs

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e.s
Champaign, Illinois
e.s   Champaign, Illinois
Climbed here on 8/29-30. It's a bit of a pain to find, but not locked off. I included a lil map to show how to get there. Just follow the path marked in orange. The parking lot is in green (and has no oil pump). I would recommend a spotter for the off-road drive, unless you have a high clearance car. We made it in a 2000 Dodge Neon, so it's definitely accessible. Grading is soft and the sandstone is very forgiving.
Sep 4, 2016
Gate to the road was definitely locked. Aug 25, 2016
Kate Zimm
Denver, CO
Kate Zimm   Denver, CO
Lost a single women's Scarpa Techo climbing shoe here on 11/26. Lost somewhere between Road Boulder and Chips or possibly near Contact boulder. If you find it please PM me! Thanks! Nov 22, 2015
WAGbag
Denver, CO
WAGbag   Denver, CO  
Update to this area and getting there:
Follow Route 29 out of Orangeville and take a right on Route 57 North. Follow this for 3.3 miles and you will see a dirt road on the right with a latrine and some climbers information, both supplied by Salt Lake Climbers Association (thank you). Taking the dirt road brings you to a tilled-up clearing where the derrick used to be. There is limited parking up here and the road is just barely ok for a subaru. Most people go an additional 0.9 miles up the paved road and park on the right with the obvious trail leading to the boulders. This land is no longer leased by the oil company and is open land again as far as I understand (and according to ownership maps which show it partly on public, state or forest service land).

Edit: since I've last visited SLCA has posted more recent information in the comments to the main page for Joe's. See updates and their maps of ownership there. Nov 30, 2014
We were in joe's valley this weekend and climbed in left and right fork, but never found new joes. We follwed the directions and found the dirt road which had a information board that said attention climbers. We drove up the dirt road for about 2 miles and it started to get really sketchy so we turned around. We saw the oil crane far off into the distance and estimated that it would take us an hour of driving on the dirt road at that rate. Is this correct? Approximately how long is the dirt road? Aug 17, 2014
Shaft
Salt Lake City
Shaft   Salt Lake City
The dirt road is gated because of repeated vandalism of the gas derrick in the parking lot.

Just use the alternate approach, why should it not be published? You can clearly see the boulders from the road and can simply straightline your way from a pullout above the locked gate - it sucks though and will cause erosion. Just use the coal road. Mar 18, 2010
Hoez
Uganda
Hoez   Uganda
bullshit - total bs. I really hope that the spraypainters werent climbers as well... thats all we need; one dickweeds ignorance and lack of respect could get the entire place shut down. the gate was locked last time i was down there as well...

and I agree. with gaar

the alt. approach shouldnt be posted in my opinion. Mar 18, 2010
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
The Dirt road is now gated, and locked due to spraypainters.....Seek alt. approach....Not sure if it should be posted how to get there now. Oct 8, 2009

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