Type: | Boulder |
FA: | Steven Jeffery, 1999 |
Page Views: | 20,640 total · 94/month |
Shared By: | Peter Franzen on Oct 30, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Aeon Aki, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-
climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo…
and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.
Description
One of the greats at Area 51, and not to be missed if you're climbing at this level.
Start on the small holds to the right of Black Lung and bump right into the horizontal crack (the big jug on the far right side of the crack is off apparently, and knocks the grade down a bit if you care about that sort of thing). Make a big move up to the sharp crimps above and then make a pretty desperate move to the 'starfish' at the top.
The crux for me was either campusing or using a funky heel hook to match in the crack, although the deadpoints at the top are troublesome for others.
"Steven originally started on two small crimps left of where everyone now starts, he also called it V11!"
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