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Routes in Area 51

Big Boy V7 7A+
Black Lung V13 8B
Chit V3 6A
Fig Fart V5 6C
Freak V10 7C+
Get Shorty V3 6A
Gettin' Warmer V2 5+
Goat Cheese V2 5+
Goat Milk V3 6A
Goatee Traverse V3+ 6A+
Huge Mamma V3 6A
Joe Cool V3 6A R
Marble Cake V9 7C
North Arete V6 7A
Phony Baloney V5- 6C
Phony Baloney Traverse V7 7A+
Resident Evil V10- 7C+
SPAM V6-7 7A+
Scary V3 6A
Scary Spice V3+ 6A+
Shagadellic V9 7C
Slap Me Silly V4 6B
Snake Bite V3+ 6A+
Stand Up V7 7A+
Stumble Pig V3 6A
Stumblebum Traverse V4 6B
Suck That V2- 5+
Sun in My Eye Traverse V6 7A
Sun in My Eyes V4 6B
Super Sloper V3 6A
Two Finger Variation V9 7C
Warm Me Up, Scotty V1 5
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,507 total, 78/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

One of the greats at Area 51, and not to be missed if you're climbing at this level.

Start on the small holds to the right of Black Lung and bump right into the horizontal crack (the big jug on the far right side of the crack is off apparently, and knocks the grade down a bit if you care about that sort of thing). Make a big move up to the sharp crimps above and then make a pretty desperate move to the 'starfish' at the top.

The crux for me was either campusing or using a funky heel hook to match in the crack, although the deadpoints at the top are troublesome for others.

Location

Just to the right of Black Lung on the main boulder.

Protection

Crashpad

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
My understanding is that original finish was to go straight up to the large pocket/slot feature that is to the left of the finishing holds of 'Stand Up' (basically to the left of the 'starfish' hold) and to not use any of the holds on 'Stand Up'. Starting the original way and finishing the original way was given v11 in the black Utah bouldering guide. Sep 4, 2014
Anyone know the original line? I know the original start, but I heard the ending was different as well. I want to do the problem legit, since the new way is really soft Sep 3, 2014
Scott Ferris sends his first V10 on Resident Evil
youtube.com/watch?v=uevInEj… Mar 20, 2012