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Routes in Area 51

Big Boy V7 7A+
Black Lung V13 8B
Chit V3 6A
Fig Fart V5 6C
Freak V10 7C+
Get Shorty V3 6A
Gettin' Warmer V2 5+
Goat Cheese V2 5+
Goat Milk V3 6A
Goatee Traverse V3+ 6A+
Huge Mamma V3 6A
Joe Cool V3 6A R
Marble Cake V9 7C
North Arete V6 7A
Phony Baloney V5- 6C
Phony Baloney Traverse V7 7A+
Resident Evil V10- 7C+
SPAM V6-7 7A+
Scary V3 6A
Scary Spice V3+ 6A+
Shagadellic V9 7C
Slap Me Silly V4 6B
Snake Bite V3 6A
Stand Up V7+ 7A+
Stumble Pig V3 6A
Stumblebum Traverse V4 6B
Suck That V2- 5+
Sun in My Eye Traverse V6 7A
Sun in My Eyes V4 6B
Super Sloper V3 6A
Two Finger Variation V9 7C
Warm Me Up, Scotty V1 5
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Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,769 total · 25/month
Shared By: Aeon Aki on Dec 16, 2012
Admins: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Begin as for "Joe Cool" on a blocky hold and begin traversing right. Many options exist so look high and low if the sequence feels hard for V5. Turn the corner and continue on huge jugs, underclings, and slopers and exit up and right above a small boulder.

A variation to this problem (V2) begins on the arete and traverses only the juggy part of this problem. The Caldiero guidebook has caused confusion about the sequence and rating of this problem as he describes this easier variation as the full "V5". Either way, the problem is a lot of fun so get on it!


This problem begins as for "Joe Cool" (V3 R) near the northwest corner of the Cake Boulder.


A crashpad and a good buddy to keep it under you as you traverse would be ideal. Some may want to pad the small boulder below the topout as well.


Nat Smale
Salt Lake City, UT
Nat Smale   Salt Lake City, UT
This problem is described differently in different sources. In the Utah Bouldering guide, Stumblebum Traverse starts further left, at the base of Joe Cool. This adds several difficult moves, and is quite a bit harder; probably V5. Feb 9, 2013
C Archibolt
Salt Lake City, UT
C Archibolt   Salt Lake City, UT
I think the rating on this problem is skewed by people starting on the corner (see picture.) If you start on the corner, it's a solid V2 (more like V3). If you start on the blocky hold for Joe Cool and traverse the whole thing, it's a V5, definitely harder than Self Service or Pimpin Jeans. Feb 20, 2018

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