Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 18,781 total · 126/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Oct 30, 2006
Admins: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

403 Opinions

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One of the most aesthetic problems anywhere, this also is in contention for the best easy problem at Joe's Valley. For most of the year the top of this problem is over the water, but the hardest moves are at the very beginning and can easily be protected by a crashpad.


The obvious rail up the face of the big riverside boulder.


Bad Sock Puppet  
This one has a tricky start. Once you get onto better hands throw the right foot along the rail since you will not reach a left foot until you are staring at the pockets. This is a must do classic Joe's boulder problem. More a mind game than anything, but the difficulty depends on where you decide to topout. Toping out early is roughly V1, whereas staying on the rail until you're nearly out of rail increases the difficulty to V2. Jul 12, 2009
Crux is definitely the start. Lots of methods for the rest, but none affect the difficulty. Nov 3, 2010
Travis Blair  
Do it in the summer over semi-deep water for full value Aug 16, 2011
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra
David Tennant
Denver, CO
David Tennant   Denver, CO
Contender for most classic boulder climb I've ever done. Beginning was definitely the crux, not because of the smaller hands but because the feet are so slick. The right foot has a greasy angling edge and the left foot options on on this weird waxy stuff. If you're gonna fall it's because your left foot is gonna slip. The rest of the problem has amazing texture. Oct 1, 2015
grog m
grog m  
Beginning is the crux. +1 to anybody who onsites this. I really thought I could nail it in one go, but getting the beginning to go is tricky! I did it a warm day in October, and have to say it is one of the hardest V2's I have ever done...V2+ Oct 20, 2015
Nick Tripp  
Nice problem! You can walk your feet up from the start for an interesting spicy slab problem. Sep 27, 2018