Incredible Hand Crack 

I think a better rating on this climb would be "9+ to 10." This climb, more than most, is hand size dependent. If you can get even thin hand jams going around the roof, then this thing is no harder than 10- (don't forget to use your feet). There's nothing tricky about this roof/bulge. However, if you have either really large or really small mitts, then this thing could be solid 10. Unlike most climbs at the Creek, this puppy isn't all that sustained. Keep all your gear/metal on the left side of your body/harness as you do the bulge. You'll see the numerous scrape marks up there. There is no excuse not to stop and re-rack at the pedestal before the steepness if you should forget.

I agree with Ben, for the average-sized (w/r/t hands!) the jams through the overhang are ridiculously bomber. 9/10, and really freakin cool.

Getting onto the initial pillar, about 20', can be difficult unless you jam it. I liebacked with a green FCU at 8' and pumped out, unable to get in a piece in higher, about a foot below the pillar top. Use a #2 camalot to get on top of the pillar and recover it if you feel the need once you're on top. The landing area only has one rock, but it has a knob on it. A spotter kept my groundfall (with the pulled green FCU) from becoming a broken leg.

I've only been to IC once in my life and that was last spring break (2001), but let me just say that being over here in Germany for the semester and not even being able to climb (Northern Germany is nothing but flat flat flat..) Looking and thinking about IC is just giving me a hard on the size of Texas. I'm already starting to train again just to get my muscles in some kind of shape to hit it hard again this spring break!!!!!!

It's common to see this rated 5.10c and Supercrack 5.10. I really can't understand that. I have perfectly average sized hands, and Supercrack (both the technical start, and the crack itself) feels like it's in a different league of difficulty altogether. I can't bring myself to think of IHC as any harder than 9+, whereas I'd call Supercrack solid 10+. Perfect hands (even with an overhang, it has no-hands rests both before and after the crux) should be easier than sustained wide hands with no rests.

But maybe, if you have excellent wide hands technique, Supercrack could feel even easier I suppose. Now I'm just confusing myself.

whatever you want to rate it this is an excellent route that should not be missed. If you feel comfortable leading just about any other route in I.C. then you will enjoy this one and it will keep you coming back for years to come.

It is best to have your second follow this route as you belay from above or you risk pushing your cams into the crack with your rope if you top rope it.

Agreed, simply lowering off can suck cams way into the crack near the crux. When we did this, my brand new #2 Camalot was pulled so far in I could barely touch the stem. Fortunately 10 minutes fishing for the trigger with a cleaning tool got it out.

Great route and the 1st I climbed at IC. Might be that I have weird-sized hands or something, but I found this to be considerably harder than Supercrack.

Those are not hands Eric, they are paws. I am surprised you can type with those meat-hooks.

Supercrack was loose for me and good for you. I.H.C was good for me and tight for you.

Duh...

I think the short pumpy section is enough to warrant a 10, but with all the rests, it's definitely easier than most 10s around here. The hands were great for my size (average to small).

The crack is getting wider. It gets done more than my belayers sister. Anyway I think the rating is historical. It is unbelievably locker now but probably not so when this crack was more virgin. Once it becomes Incredible Fist Stack Crack it probably will have shorter lines.

IHC is definitely .9 And the worst part is that its because of excessive traffic. I climbed it first only like seven years ago and couldn't get my hands into the crack. I remember there was one part to SQUEEZE a #2 Camalot in at the lip of the crux; I think people manking gear around in that pre crux manic attack have increased the wear. It's a shame people don't redistribute the wear a bit. climb some other cracks and definitely try not to top rope the whole team up the thing. Have some respect. I wonder if most people even realize the all that white rock is from wear, ditto on Supercrack, fingers,

chad davis

Well Chad, it looks like you've climbed it at least twice (probably more), so clearly you have already exceeded your limit and we can safely expect that you will never climb it again, right? But don't worry, we can tell everyone who's there for the first time that half their party won't be able to do it so all the other old-timers like you can have their multiple ascent quota.

I don't mourn the wear on IHC. I mourn the ridiculous hoards of climbers who flock to Supercrack Buttress. I still can't figure out why everyone stays on this one cliff, when Indian creek has countless cliffs of excellent quality, with short approaches. Go do some FA's for Pete's sake! There are a million IHC's and Supercrack's at the Creek, and many haven't even been climbed.

does it get any better? just a joy of a route.

The picture of Ben climbing w/o shoes is fantastic. May I suggest climbing w/o pants? This affords a great cock jam rest before the roof!!

Stellar climb with nary a variance in size the whole way. This crack was made for #2 Camalots. I recall placing about 9 cams and sewing it up - super fun route. Exactly 100' to the anchors.

For what it is worth, I've confirmed the crack is getting bigger!

4 years ago I could NOT get in a metolius fat cam (forgot the size) below the crux 'roof'.

This year, same cam fit PERFECT.

It'll be the IFC in about 10 years.

this route takes a 5.10+ amount of juice for me to get up it.
10- and 9+ is more like generic crack.

Reachy.

if you place gear under the overhang, use long runners to avoid rope being sucked into crack.

it would be nice if everyone would take a voluntary "three climb maximum" vow on this (as well as Supercrack, and maybe Coyne and Fingers in a Lightsocket). I have.

That said, it is nice that this climb, the buttress, and its short approach keep attracting the majority of Indian Creek visitors. Helps save the rest of the canyon.

if cookie monster ate only #2 camalots- he would be very happy on incredible hand crack.

Number three Friends NOW fit this crack perfectly, it has also become easier with 'man hands'.

Oh my god. This climb is sooo much fun. I want to mate with the Incredible Handcrack and make baby IHCs that will hopefully resemble the original.
The wear and tear of climbers is taking its toll on this route so get on it soon.

In the Kalymnos guidebook under the entry for the route Trela it quotes a spanish climber as saying "Oh my god, how could I have existed without having done this climb". IHC might be considered the crack climbers equivalent.

Ok, maybe I am exagerating it a little bit, but this climb is really fun.

i think I places 7 #2 camalots, and maybe a #1 at the start. Easier than it looks if you have huge man hands (felt cruiser to me).
10a!

I have small hands, and the crack was shaky hands or off hands for me. I could not get a good jam over the roof at all. I would give this a solid 5.10 rating. Still a great route though

"Well, if perfect hands is your thing" uttered to us by another climber while we were waiting for the climb. The hands really are perfect and the crack is a bit tapered so it fits a lot of hand sizes.

FA: Rich Perch, John Bragg, Doug Snively, and Anne Tarver, 1978.

This route is a raging pain with small hands. Wear long sleeves.