Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Approach as per Schoolroom, but as you are clambering up the boulder field that exits from the gully, continue up the gully, staying close to the right edge. You will hit a big box elder tree-- here climb up to a ledge and follow this ledge/ramp to the right. Watch for the crack. It is easy to miss.This crack is a fun lead. It progresses from hand to off-hand and even has little finger and fist. In other words a good varied crack. Very enjoyable.
The anchor consists of an old 1/4 inch bolt and a flake. I remember talking to someone back in 2002 that said he was going to replace the anchor--. Otherwise bring small slings for the flake. The crack protects well with a standard rack. No, matter how tempting, don't cheat yourself and clip the bolts on the arete climb.
By Peter Gram Administrator From: New York, NY May 25, 2004
The anchor now has a bomber bolt, plus the webbing around the horn. It would be possible to rap from here, but it might take 2 ropes? From the anchor, a medium length pitch tops out Schoolroom using either Movie Variation or Schoolroom P5.
By Jason Billings From: Draper, UT May 3, 2005 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
Be careful on the scramble over to the beginning. We had a 63M rope that got us back to the bottom with one rappel, but just barely. You could rappel twice, with a shorter rope, by rappelling down to the anchors on top of Primal Scream.
By kBobby From: Spokane, WA Jun 21, 2005 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
The anchor no longer has the sling and rap ring around the flake. You can continue up to the tree on Schoolroom, but expect company on weekends. If you plan on rapping the route, bring some webbing and a ring.
Climbed it last night and added some webbing and a rap ring on what I assumed to be "the horn" just above the bomber bolt with two rap rings. A 70m rope got us back to the ramp with just a few feet to spare. Don't worry though, cause as stated above you could do 2 one rope raps using the anchors on the slab route next too it. Gear was solid the whole way. Climb felt kinda like an offwidth sloping the wrong way. I thought the crux was just above where the book says it is. Just my $0.02
Great climb. I combined this with the Movie Variation today. The first two times I climbed this, I thought the crux was in the bulging section. This time, the crux for me was definitely above that section.
Climbed this today and really enjoyed it. Fun, physical LCC 5.7. Awkward but fun. The bolt at the anchor looked bomber and the webbing around the horn was good. I used roughly a set of cams to #4 and a few nuts. We continued up another pitch by climbing the last pitch of Schoolroom.
And yeah, a 70m rope was just barely enough to get down.
I climbed a fun variation of this route yesterday, mistakenly thinking I was on Lizzie Borden. I took the left crack (closer to the Rumba arÍte, clearly visible in the photo) and rejoined with the standard Hatchet route 15' or so before the anchor. I turned out to be a well protected and entertaining combination of good hand jams and face climbing on the abundant knobs. I found the crux to be the same as for Hatchet before stepping over but it remains sustained and physical with that Little Cottonwood Lean! If you have already done Hatchet give this a try. Single rack is adequate maybe doubles #.75-#2
This climb begins on a ledge/ramp, and (as near as I can tell) can be approached from either below (climbing up the slot and gaining the ramp to the bottom of the climb) or from above (climbing down the ramp to the climb).
When we arrived at the bottom of the climb, we met two climbers who were rapping off schoolroom with a 70 meter, using Hatchet's anchors. The 70 doesn't get you back down to the ground, just lands you at the ramp, and there isn't a second set of anchors, so you have to downclimb/climb up and out from there. It's easy going, but there are potential consequences if you blow it, and they were not prepared for the downclimb.
We made an anchor for them at the base of the crack and lowered them off. After the climb, I belayed my partner down off the same anchor, dismantled it, and climbed up the ramp and out into the gully. I have no idea if that's the way to do it.
If Hatchet Crack was leading at your level, the downclimb could easily be the most serious part of the entire climb. Beginning leaders may want to plan to climb out still roped up, and may consider making an anchor at the bottom of the crack for the belayer's comfort.
By Jake Billitteri From: Salt Lake City, Utah May 27, 2014 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
I did this climb with Gabriel last weekend, so I will not repeat the details of our ordeal on the approach. I found that the climb itself was a hell of a good time, especially the flake system towards the top. Overall, this climb is a good beginner trad lead provided that you are equipped for the approach.