Hatchet Crack 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Bill Conrod, Ed Anderson, 1964 |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Jun 3, 2002 |
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Triznut's first time on Hatchet. Great Crack!!!
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Approach as per Schoolroom, but as you are clambering up the boulder field that exits from the gully, continue up the gully, staying close to the right edge. You will hit a big box elder tree-- here climb up to a ledge and follow this ledge/ramp to the right. Watch for the crack. It is easy to miss.This crack is a fun lead. It progresses from hand to off-hand and even has little finger and fist. In other words a good varied crack. Very enjoyable.
Protection The anchor consists of an old 1/4 inch bolt and a flake. I remember talking to someone back in 2002 that said he was going to replace the anchor--. Otherwise bring small slings for the flake. The crack protects well with a standard rack. No, matter how tempting, don't cheat yourself and clip the bolts on the arete climb.
BETA PHOTO: The bottom crack is Hatchet Crack.
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BETA PHOTO: Hatchet Crack.
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| Comments on Hatchet Crack |
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By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: Park City, UT
May 25, 2004
| The anchor now has a bomber bolt, plus the webbing around the horn. It would be possible to rap from here, but it might take 2 ropes? From the anchor, a medium length pitch tops out Schoolroom using either Movie Variation or Schoolroom P5. |
By Jason Billings
From: Draper, UT
May 3, 2005
rating: 5.7
| Be careful on the scramble over to the beginning. We had a 63M rope that got us back to the bottom with one rappel, but just barely. You could rappel twice, with a shorter rope, by rappelling down to the anchors on top of Primal Scream. |
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 21, 2005
rating: 5.7
Gear Alert
| The anchor no longer has the sling and rap ring around the flake. You can continue up to the tree on Schoolroom, but expect company on weekends. If you plan on rapping the route, bring some webbing and a ring. |
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 6, 2005
| Climbed it last night and added some webbing and a rap ring on what I assumed to be "the horn" just above the bomber bolt with two rap rings. A 70m rope got us back to the ramp with just a few feet to spare. Don't worry though, cause as stated above you could do 2 one rope raps using the anchors on the slab route next too it. Gear was solid the whole way. Climb felt kinda like an offwidth sloping the wrong way. I thought the crux was just above where the book says it is. Just my $0.02 |
By tenesmus
Sep 9, 2006
| 70 makes it back down nicely. If you do the link up to the Movie variation, be sure to bring some extra webbing and a rap ring or something. |
By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006
| A fun route! |
By chrisnsmith
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 9, 2007
| Great climb. I combined this with the Movie Variation today. The first two times I climbed this, I thought the crux was in the bulging section. This time, the crux for me was definitely above that section. |
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
May 21, 2010
| classic LCC trad! Anchor is bomber - thanks to whoever put that in!
Looks like a new bolt line to the right on the slab? Any info??? |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 21, 2010
| That's a TC route that goes at 5.12 something, it's in the book, can't remember the name. 3 or 4 bolts of heinous slabbing to an anchor in the middle of nowhere. Climbs like ass. |
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jun 18, 2010
| Thanks - shoulda known when I saw that anchor! :) Gotta pick up that 'new' book one of these days... |
By Tristan Higbee
From: Mexico
Mar 13, 2012
| Climbed this today and really enjoyed it. Fun, physical LCC 5.7. Awkward but fun. The bolt at the anchor looked bomber and the webbing around the horn was good. I used roughly a set of cams to #4 and a few nuts. We continued up another pitch by climbing the last pitch of Schoolroom.
And yeah, a 70m rope was just barely enough to get down. |
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