BETA PHOTO: Pony Up & Poker Face on the face to the left of th...
Description
A nice rock, easily seen from the road. There are a number of medium difficulty sport climbs well protected here. People's Choice always seems to have people on it, as well as the routes on the far left side. A great place for beginner sport leaders.
Note, this has become popular with large group outings.
Getting There
Get on US 6 from Golden, going West. High Wire Crag is directly above east entrance to Tunnel 2, which is 4.9 miles from the FIRST TUNNEL. Park before the bridge, on either side. Be careful - the road shoulders are small, and there are always buses full of old people on their way up to Blackhawk. Walk across the bridge on the south side (a little sketch), and walk south up the hill following the trail up to the rock. There is a bit of exposed 3rd to 4th class which has injured the less than wary.
To approach the right side of the crag, you ascend a gully off the north side of the road and cut back to these climbs.
Parking
The "NO PARKING ZONE" is on the SOUTH side of the road. The fine is at least $22. It has been that way since before the crushed car, ~2006. (Now that was an amazing photo!)
Parking is permitted on the NORTH side of the road, the side nearest the creek a few hundred yards to the east.
L->R:
A. Pony Up, 8, 1p, 80', bolts. B. Poker Face, 8 or 9, 1p, 80', bolts. C. Arete, 9, 1p, 80', TR. D. Stone Cold Moderate, 7, 1p, 85', gear or bolts. E. 5th of July, 9+, 1p, 85', bolts. F. Ace in the Hole, 10-, 1p, 85', bolts. G. Crack, 1p, 85', gear or TR. H. Cracker Jack, 9, 1p, 80', gear or bolts. IH. Bypass, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. JH. Overpass, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts KH. Passing Lane, 9 PG-13, 1p, 85', bolts. KL. The Contrarian, 9-, 1p, 60', bolt & gear. L. Deuces Wild, 10-, 2p, 135', bolts. M. Via Comatose Amigo, 10, 1p, 125', bolts. N. Jackpot, 10+ to 12, 1p, 110', bolts. O. Road Rash Roof, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts. P. Road Warrior, 12+, 1-2p, 130', bolts. Q. Road Kill, 12-, 3p, 200', bolts. R. In Between Days, 10, 1p, 60', TR. S. People's Choice, 10+, 1-4p, 210', bolts. T. Nickels and Dimes, 8+, 2p, 110', bolts & gear. U. Slot Machine, 11+/12-, 1p, 85', bolts, (left of P3 of S). V. Full House, 11+ or 12, 1p, bolts (left of P3 of S). WX. Bouncer, 11+, 1p, bolts, (left of P3 of S). X. Wild Card, 12, 1p, bolts (left of P3 of S).
Right of Tunnel (different approach)
Y. Power Play, 12-, 1p, 140', bolts. ZY. Hip at the Lip, 12-, 1p, 140', bolts. AA. Idiot's Roof, 12, bolts & gear, no anchor? BB. Indirect Savant, 12, 1p, 60', bolts. CCBB. Idiot Savant, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for High Wire Crag:
DO THIS ROUTE because it's definitely one of the best in the canyon! Simply a fantastic route; fun for both the studly 12 ropegunner and the beginner friends you're taking out. It's 85' down from the anchors, so be careful lowering/rapping with a 50m rope. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
The climb 2 bolted routes left of Peoples' Choice is harder than 5.7, like it says in the guidebook! More like 5.9 at the first bolt! The second pitch of Peoples' Choice is more like 5.6 than 5.8. The new line right of Peoples' is 5.10a or so if you don't grab the big layback flake to the right, 5.8 or so if you do.
Any info on the route just to the right of People's Choice would be appreciated. How new is it? Is it named? It is a good line with great crimpers and edges up the face and a mental challenge to not go for the flake!!
We were up there climbing, and did the three bolt climb a few over from Nickels and Dimes (great route! Think 10a up the face, avoiding the flake?). Someone with a book told us it was 5.7, but we found the direct start to the first bolt quite a bit harder: skimpy hands, mininal feet, balancy. Maybe 5.9? I checked all the routes in here and could not find a 3 bolt one that goes up to the little ramp... any ideas? What is the climb, and what's the real rating?
The route that you were most likely on based on your description is indeed a 5.7 to the ramp. It is the first pitch to "Road Warrior" (5.13a). The 5.7 ends at a two bolt stance on the ledge. Hope that helps!
Anyone know what the 13-bolt line just to the R of Via Comatose Amigo and L of Road Rash Roof is? It felt like 10+ with the traversing moves L of 8/9th bolts or a 12 direct line between 8/9th bolts.
I know this sounds kinda odd, but i think i left my climbing shoes (boreal pyros resoled in C4) at the high wire crag just in front of the queen's slab area... if anyone has happened to find them email me at tomalari17@hotmail.com and i will be forever thankful
On 6/23/04 Dal Haas and I performed the following anchor upgrades on this crag.
-added 4 quick links to the top anchor of Deuces Wild-reversed the quick link anchor (5/16" into bolt, 3/8" to rope) on Cracker Jack-replaced the smash (lap) links with quick links on Ace in the Hole-replaced the smash links with quick links on 5th of July-replaced the smash links with quick links on Stone Cold Moderate-replaced the smash links and quick links with new quick links and rappel rings on Poker Face
This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA). Visit their website at www.safeclimbing.org, they appreciate your support.
By Casey Bernal From: Wheat Ridge, CO Mar 20, 2008
I recovered a few draws this evening (3/20) from Highwire Crag.
I am probably the last to find out, but Colorado State Patrol is ticketing all cars that park on the SOUTH (thanks for the correction, Casey) side of the road (on the left if you're heading uphill) right next to the bridge, closest to the crag. The signs are there, but they are planted facing the road, so if you're coming downhill early in the morning and pull off to the right, you can miss them. $22 mandatory, no sob stories. Got mine Sunday, July 20. I can understand, though, because the city got sued when a car got crushed by a big boulder, according to the officer I chatted with. Just FYI.
By Casey Bernal From: Wheat Ridge, CO Jul 22, 2008
The "NO PARKING ZONE" is on the SOUTH side of the road. It has been that way since before the crushed car, about 2 years ago.
Parking is permitted on the NORTH side of the road, the side nearest the creek.
Climbed at Left Wire in this area yesterday. There are some short quality routes that look as though they have not seen many ascents. Great views of the Clear Creek drainage and a good way to get away from the crowds at High Wire.
Someone left some double shoulder length runners and some nylon webbing by Overpass yesterday (Aug. 21). I picked them up, and would be happy to return them to the right owner. Just contact me through this post
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