Type: Sport
FA: Richard Wright, 1997.
Page Views: 8,623 total · 39/month
Shared By: Shaun Miller on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


265 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Closure 8/22/18-10/16/18 7a-5p weekdays Details

Description

Climb up the gully a few feet to the first bolt. Work your way onto the leaning arete and continue up and right. Move up the face to the crux (after the 5th bolt)and finish at the two bolt anchor. This is a fun route for leaders just getting into 5.10s.

Protection

Only QDs needed. 9 bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
If you're just getting into the 10s, wear a helmet. The 1st 3-4 bolts leave you with grey matter splatter potential on that slab to your right. Nobody likes smearing over your grey. Mar 5, 2002
Ratings are, by definition, subjective, but just to put in my two cents--I think this route is more fun and slightly easier than The 5th of July. I'd give it 5.9****. Side note: I'm 6'1" - 200lbs...which biases my perspective. --Excellent work on this crag, Richard! Mar 11, 2002
Wendie  
Really fun climb if you're looking to get into leading 10's!! Shorter than 5th of July, and if you stay right it's easier than 10a. Stay under the clips until right below the 3rd bolt & it will be easier, too. If you move onto the face earlier, you're going to have a bit of trouble. Jun 25, 2002
This one was harder than the 5th of July, in my humble opinion, but I liked it even better! I'm never sure how a 5.7 leader like me can make it up these routes, but damn they are fun!! Jul 23, 2002
Guppy  
If anyone reads this, let me know the name of the climb two to the right of Ace In The Hole. Anyway, SICK picture Morgan. Apr 25, 2003
This is a nice climb that deserves more stars, particularly if 5th of July is rated at 4.5 stars. This climb is not much harder than 5th but you have to think a bit more at a couple of spots. Mar 6, 2006
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.10a
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.10a
I climbed this and 5th on our way to the Wall of Justice. For all the spray that 5th gets, I thought this route was much more fun; cool pockets and pleasant moves. =) Jun 18, 2006
jcntrl
Smoulder, CO
  5.10-
jcntrl   Smoulder, CO
  5.10-
It may be a little bit easier to move onto the face from the gully if you step over at or above the second bolt, but why? It is quite fun moving over from just at, or just below the first bolt after an easy clip, so don't cheat yourself of that pleasure and just commit! The handholds are pretty positive there, though they do require the leader a moment of airborne feet. Perhaps that was just me having fun with it. :) The moves above that are a slightly tricky, but those are the business and part of what makes this route 5.10.

Overall the route is fairly straightforward for a 10, probably good for aspiring 10 leaders yet still worthwhile (fun) for those solid at the grade. Jun 27, 2009
danma
Portland, Oregon
danma   Portland, Oregon
Just did this today. Very enjoyable indeed. I have to agree though that it was either on par with the "5th of July" or slightly easier. The route had more variety than the 5th and in fact right where the two routes almost converge in the middle The Ace feels very much the same as the 5th. I think I liked this route a bit more than the 5th due to a little more variety. Aug 29, 2011
Hiro Protagonist
Colorado
 
Hiro Protagonist   Colorado
 
Personally, I liked this route more than 5ht of July on the "fun" scale. If you are new 5.10 leader, you'll find it interesting to select your moves but with options all the time. I lead 5.10a/b at the time of writing this (mainly Boulder Canyon ratings), and found it pretty easy (not scary). I highly recommend it! May 18, 2012
In October, Dale Haas and I replaced the old hardware at the anchor with quick links and rappel rings. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Dec 10, 2013
Jason Platt
  5.9
Jason Platt  
  5.9
This route and the 5th are simply classic face climbs. The moves are continuous and fun on amazing rock. I personally might have liked this route a bit more, since there was a larger variety of moves and holds. Either way though, make sure you look around when you get to the top. It's one of the best views in CCC. Jul 14, 2014
William Thiry
Las Vegas
  5.10a
William Thiry   Las Vegas
  5.10a
I lost my wedding ring somewhere at the bottom of this route. If you find it, please contact me, because it would mean a lot to have it back. Jul 24, 2014
In June 2015, Dale Haas and I upgraded the anchor hardware with SS quicklinks and SS rap rings. The American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA -safeclimbing.org) provided the hardware. Support them if you can! Oct 17, 2015