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Via Comatose Amigo
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 341
votes
Routes in High Wire Crag
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5th of July S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ace in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bouncer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bypass S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Contrarian, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cracker Jack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dead End Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deuces Wild S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Everyday Struggle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Everything Rhymes with Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Full House S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Ghetto Activity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ghetto Head S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Head Up Activity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Head Up Dirty S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Hip at the Lip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Idiot Savant S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Idiot's Roof T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Indirect Savant S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Jackpot S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Life After Death S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Machine Gun Funk S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Moderate Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nickels and Dimes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Notorious S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Overpass S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Passing Lane S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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People's Choice S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Poker Face S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pony Up S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Power Play T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Road Kill S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Road Rash Roof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Road Warrior S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Savage, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Slot Machine S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stone Cold Moderate S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Via Comatose Amigo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Wild Card S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 125 ft (38 m) |
| FA: | Richard Wright and Tod Anderson, 1997 |
| Page Views: | 9,891 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on May 6, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
Via Comatose Amigo is the route immediately to the right of Deuces Wild and starts off on some slabby grey rock. Surprisingly better than it looks, the line follows up the grey stuff for 50 feet or so, and then pulls onto a flat ledge that looks directly right to the Jackpot face. Follow the pegmatite for a few clips, slip left, a bit, and amble up to the anchors. This route is actually a great kick. The moves are enjoyable, the stone is excellent (Yes, Harry, even pegmatite can be solid!), and the route is well protected. However, I find the clip leading into the pegmatite to be a bit weird if you are not tall, which I am not. I use an extendo clip here that makes the clip very comfortable. Two stars for sure.
NB: this is not a very good top rope route since the line wanders a bit. Also, there is a very rusty old pin at the ledge preceding the pegmatite, but I have no idea who climbed here before, or what the line used to be.
NB: this is not a very good top rope route since the line wanders a bit. Also, there is a very rusty old pin at the ledge preceding the pegmatite, but I have no idea who climbed here before, or what the line used to be.
Protection
QDs only. You will get a baker's dozen clips in 115 feet of climbing. A double bolt anchor exists at the top. However, "Hear-Of-Fail-Not" to quote the courts. This 40m route needs double ropes to descend!!!!! Not even a 60m rope will work. It is possible to pick up a second rap stance at Jackpot, but a direct descent goes on double ropes only.
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