Type: Sport, 125 ft (38 m)
FA: Richard Wright and Tod Anderson, 1997
Page Views: 7,253 total · 31/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 6, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Via Comatose Amigo is the route immediately to the right of Deuces Wild and starts off on some slabby grey rock. Surprisingly better than it looks, the line follows up the grey stuff for 50 feet or so, and then pulls onto a flat ledge that looks directly right to the Jackpot face. Follow the pegmatite for a few clips, slip left, a bit, and amble up to the anchors. This route is actually a great kick. The moves are enjoyable, the stone is excellent (Yes, Harry, even pegmatite can be solid!), and the route is well protected. However, I find the clip leading into the pegmatite to be a bit weird if you are not tall, which I am not. I use an extendo clip here that makes the clip very comfortable. Two stars for sure.

NB: this is not a very good top rope route since the line wanders a bit. Also, there is a very rusty old pin at the ledge preceding the pegmatite, but I have no idea who climbed here before, or what the line used to be.

Protection

QDs only. You will get a baker's dozen clips in 115 feet of climbing. A double bolt anchor exists at the top. However, "Hear-Of-Fail-Not" to quote the courts. This 40m route needs double ropes to descend!!!!! Not even a 60m rope will work. It is possible to pick up a second rap stance at Jackpot, but a direct descent goes on double ropes only.

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