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Routes in High Wire Crag

5th of July S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ace in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bouncer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bypass S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Contrarian, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cracker Jack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deuces Wild S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Everyday Struggle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everything Rhymes with Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full House S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ghetto Activity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghetto Head S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Up Activity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Up Dirty S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hip at the Lip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Idiot Savant S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Idiot's Roof T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Indirect Savant S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jackpot S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Life After Death S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Machine Gun Funk S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Moderate Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nickels and Dimes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Notorious S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Overpass S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Passing Lane S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
People's Choice S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poker Face S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pony Up S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Power Play T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Road Kill S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Road Rash Roof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Warrior S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Savage, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slot Machine S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stone Cold Moderate S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Via Comatose Amigo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wild Card S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, TR Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: Probably Richard Wright
Page Views: 8,736 total, 44/month
Shared By: Morgan Brown on Oct 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

I'm reluctant to post this route, as I have not led it, have no guidebook handy, and have not been back to Colorado for about a year. Here goes:

The route is next to 5.8 Pony Up, and adjacent parties climbing the two routes often interfere down low. Like many of the other routes, this one starts with a jug haul. Were it not for the miraculous finger pocket, it would be quite tough. This is definitely the crux of the route. The remainder of the route never surpasses 5.7 or so, with the highlight being a fun traverse up a 60-degree crack. I recall some loose rocks, but nothing terrible. The picture below shows nice views (route 2).

Addendum: note, this route is quite challenging for folks in the 5'2" and under range.

Protection

I don't lead climbs yet, but I remember that this route is well (and recently) bolted with big bolts. I remember two bolts for the anchor.

7 bolts including the anchor.

Eds. All bolts were replaced with 1/2" SS bolts/hangers 7/16. Thanks, Erika and Jim!

Location

This is the right of 2 bolted lines on this small triangular face, which is on the far left side of this crag.
ErikaNW
Golden, CO
ErikaNW   Golden, CO
Jim Wong and I finished replacing all of the bolts and anchors on this route on July 8, 2016 (previously replaced the 1st bolt June 4, 2015). We were able to re-use the holes for all except bolt 1 (bolt snapped on extraction). Replaced the old 3/8" bolts with 1/2" SS bolts/hangers. This work was made possible through the AF/AAC Anchor Replacement Initiative grant, hardware provided at cost through the BCC. Please support these organizations! Jul 9, 2016
In June 2015, Dale Haas and I upgraded the anchor hardware with SS quicklinks and SS rap rings. The American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA - safeclimbing.org) provided the hardware. Support of the ASCA is greatly appreciated. Oct 16, 2015
Isaacbg Gorrell
Golden, CO
 
Isaacbg Gorrell   Golden, CO
 
Possible sit start from the right that adds another move. Doesn't up the ante much, but for the boulder'ers on ropes, it makes it more interesting. Oct 6, 2015
ErikaNW
Golden, CO
ErikaNW   Golden, CO
The 1st bolt has been replaced on this route. Jun 9, 2015
curt86iroc
Golden, CO
  5.9-
curt86iroc   Golden, CO
  5.9-
First 2 bolts are spinners...and definitely wouldn't want to fall on the 1st bolt. Fun route, though! Mar 29, 2015
In October, Dale Haas and I added chains to the existing anchor to lengthen it a bit and distribute the load better between the two bolts. Dec 10, 2013
Matt Powers
Madison, VA
Matt Powers   Madison, VA
FYI, I went out today and the first two bolts are spinning, and I think at least one more is, somewhere along the way. Aug 18, 2013
goingUp
over here
goingUp   over here
Found some climbing shoes in the cave a few days ago. Are they yours? Jul 26, 2013
ChefMattThaner
Lakewood, co
5.9- PG13
ChefMattThaner   Lakewood, co
5.9- PG13
The right bolt of the top anchor is a little loose and minimally rusted. I gave it a good tug, and it didn't move, but I would still consider this one suspect. Luckily the left one still seems bomber. With the new, further back anchors, rope drag is a bit of an issue but nothing too terrible. Jul 8, 2013
Scott Teske
  5.9
Scott Teske  
  5.9
None of the comments mentioned that there are SEPARATE new anchors (higher and to the right) for this route now... very fun route, fun bouldery crux moves to first bolt, then nice holds on great rock the rest of the way up.... May 1, 2012
Robbie Flick
Denver, CO
  5.9
Robbie Flick   Denver, CO
  5.9
A great route. First moves feel harder than 5.8. After that, easy but very fun climbing. Very similar to Pony Up. If your partner is shorter, consider leading this yourself and leaving the first bolt clipped.... May 23, 2011
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8+
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8+
Steep but with big holds at the start - UK technical grade 5a but very safe due to bolts. Oct 27, 2009
Tony T.
Denver, CO
 
Tony T.   Denver, CO
 
Like Pony Up, this route has a rather tricky first bolt. Be careful getting to it, as it's essentially a pretty pumpy boulder problem.. There is a left traverse and a right traverse to the first bolt. Follow the chalk. The right is a bit harder than the left. After that it's easier, but not super easy. I wouldn't say it's a 7, but an easier 8, but it's relative I suppose. I guess it's a 7, but a less "quality" 7, and so it makes the route harder because it's not as intuitive as a "better" climb. Sep 14, 2009
Alex A  
Fun warm up, bouldery start, if shorter.
Note on worn rap bolts: if people would not TR or lower off bolts they would last a lot longer, so add your own draws for TR, and rappel off, vs lower off, bolts would last much longer. Nov 17, 2008
Jeremy Hakes
Golden, Colorado
  5.9
Jeremy Hakes   Golden, Colorado
  5.9
7 bolts including the anchor. The first moves (if leading) could use a spotter - very bouldery, and give the route its rating. Easiest line to start seemed to be on the right hand side for us. Above this first bolt, mostly 5.7ish climbing. Jul 2, 2008
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
 
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
 
I recovered a few draws this evening (3/20).

I will be very happy to return them to the owner. Mar 20, 2008
Nate Oakes  
 
A fun little warmup, I agree with Kyle. A friend of mine led this as her first outdoor lead, and it worked out well. She's short, so it was a bit bouldery for the start. May 15, 2006
Kyle Turner
Brighton, CO
  5.8-
Kyle Turner   Brighton, CO
  5.8-
Commiting first move gives this route a 5.9 rating in most guide books, but after the first clip its hard to say its much more than a 5.7. Get the first move wired and this becomes a mellow warm up, worth a lap prior to moving on to harder routes.

- KT Apr 5, 2004
Brad Short
Saudia Aurora, CO
Brad Short   Saudia Aurora, CO
The worn cold shuts at the top of Poker Face were replaced sometime this week. Kudos to someone. Oct 19, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Gear Maintenance - This topic has come up repeatedly over the last two years. Mark Rolofson and I, along with several other folks, started replacing worn anchors at North Table Mountain last year. I have personally replaced 22 double bolt top anchors on NTM alone and Mark has replaced at least 26, to say nothing of individual spinner bolts and hangers. This is simply a price that will have to be paid if we all intend to use in situ gear. Many of the routes in Clear Creek, Boulder Canyon, NTM, Castlewood, Shelf Road, etc, etc are badly in need as well. We thrashed about with some sort of mechanism for funding the process and organizing the effort. So far, Mark has been stuck with the lion's share of this task and he certainly can't do it alone, nor even with my help. First, we need a list of routes, compiled by area, where the old gear needs replacement. Second, we need to divy up the cost in some rational way. On average, a double bolt top anchor will cost close to 20 bucks for bolts, hangers, and rap system (chains, rings, etc.). Third, we need enough people willing to do the work that the job gets done. Fourth, we need a mechanism for recording which routes have been repaired and when. This is not a minor effort. Pick up a copy of Mark's or Rossiter's guides and you quickly realize that there are hundreds of popular routes in the Front Range alone that are in need of repair. This is also not without its potential legal issues. As best as I can tell, the anonymous individual effort to replace old worn anchors has only scratched the surface. Once again, it seems timely to cobble our thoughts together and see what we can come up with. Jul 25, 2002
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
The anchor bolts up there that are also shared w/Pony Up freaked me out a bit. They're worn through about half way from rope and could stand to be replaced. Jul 25, 2002
Wendie  
Getting to the first bolt is a bit of a challenge if you're not too tall. After that, it's fun, easy climbing to the shared anchor! Jun 25, 2002