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Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler)
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.9 from 65
votes
Routes in High Wire Crag
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5th of July S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ace in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bouncer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bypass S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Contrarian, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cracker Jack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dead End Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deuces Wild S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Everyday Struggle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Everything Rhymes with Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Full House S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Ghetto Activity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ghetto Head S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Head Up Activity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Head Up Dirty S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Hip at the Lip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Idiot Savant S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Idiot's Roof T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Indirect Savant S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Jackpot S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Life After Death S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Machine Gun Funk S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Moderate Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nickels and Dimes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Notorious S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Overpass S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Passing Lane S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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People's Choice S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Poker Face S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pony Up S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Power Play T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Road Kill S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Road Rash Roof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Road Warrior S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Savage, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Slot Machine S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stone Cold Moderate S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Via Comatose Amigo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Wild Card S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | at least by the 1970s |
| Page Views: | 5,678 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | Teigon S. on Aug 22, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
This route is located in the crack directly left of Cracker Jack. I originally was going to traverse over to the anchors on the top of Deuces Wild, but when I got up there were old hangers on the needle. They looked as if they were placed a while ago but hardly used. Excellent Clear Creek trad!!!
Per George Bracksieck: sometime in the early-to-mid '70s, I led a partner up the obvious long right-facing dihedral that divides the Deuces Wild area from the Stone Cold Moderate area.
Eds. This is a combination of submissions, combined here to avoid confusion due to duplication.
Per George Bracksieck: sometime in the early-to-mid '70s, I led a partner up the obvious long right-facing dihedral that divides the Deuces Wild area from the Stone Cold Moderate area.
Eds. This is a combination of submissions, combined here to avoid confusion due to duplication.
Location
Start on the shelf at the base of Cracker Jack and follow the obvious crack over the roof. Rap from either the chains at the top or do a fun hand traverse over to the top of Deuces Wild.
Protection
Awesome at the cruxes, but run out the last 30 feet. I used up to a #2 Camalot and only a few nuts. Bring plenty of slings if you're scared of the runouts.
Per George Bracksieck: SR, maybe with large hexes and/or cams.
Per Joseph Josleyn: the bolts at the top are loose.
Per George Bracksieck: SR, maybe with large hexes and/or cams.
Per Joseph Josleyn: the bolts at the top are loose.
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