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Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler)

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British


 Avg: 2 from 31 votes

Routes in High Wire Crag

5th of July S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ace in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bouncer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bypass S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Contrarian, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cracker Jack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deuces Wild S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Everyday Struggle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everything Rhymes with Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full House S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ghetto Activity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghetto Head S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Up Activity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Up Dirty S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hip at the Lip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Idiot Savant S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Idiot's Roof T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Indirect Savant S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jackpot S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Life After Death S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Machine Gun Funk S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Moderate Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nickels and Dimes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Notorious S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Overpass S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Passing Lane S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
People's Choice S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poker Face S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pony Up S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Power Play T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Road Kill S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Road Rash Roof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Warrior S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Savage, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slot Machine S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stone Cold Moderate S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Via Comatose Amigo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wild Card S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: at least by the 1970s
Page Views: 3,368 total, 44/month
Shared By: Teigon S. on Aug 22, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is located in the crack directly left of Cracker Jack. I originally was going to traverse over to the anchors on the top of Deuces Wild, but when I got up there were old hangers on the needle. They looked as if they were placed a while ago but hardly used. Excellent Clear Creek trad!!!

Per George Bracksieck: sometime in the early-to-mid '70s, I led a partner up the obvious long right-facing dihedral that divides the Deuces Wild area from the Stone Cold Moderate area.

Eds. This is a combination of submissions, combined here to avoid confusion due to duplication.

Location

Start on the shelf at the base of Cracker Jack and follow the obvious crack over the roof. Rap from either the chains at the top or do a fun hand traverse over to the top of Deuces Wild.

Protection

Awesome at the cruxes, but run out the last 30 feet. I used up to a #2 Camalot and only a few nuts. Bring plenty of slings if you're scared of the runouts.

Per George Bracksieck: SR, maybe with large hexes and/or cams.

Photos

Yes ^ that book lists it as "Beginners on Crack". You don't need to bring a full rack, just a couple small Aliens and maybe #0.5 to #2. I placed 4 pieces, could have placed 7 or 8. Fun, little crack! Sep 25, 2016
I think the Capps Clear Creek Canyon guide calls this "Beginners on Crack, 5.7 R *". Aug 26, 2016
I climbed this in the '70s, then we walked off. Jan 27, 2016
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8-
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8-
I thought this was about 5.7 except for one move at the top near the anchors which I thought was 5.8-. Oct 2, 2013
Andrew Mayer
Driggs, ID
Andrew Mayer   Driggs, ID
Climbed this one day last week. Fun little outing but not worth bring a rack up to high wire for IMHO. Also felt more like 5.7. Apr 30, 2012
Teigon S.  
 
Thanks for the anchors, and I also thought it was 5.6-5.7 but the people I had top rope it thought it was harder. Glad you like the name! Thanks again! Aug 22, 2011