Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: at least by the 1970s
Page Views: 3,726 total · 42/month
Shared By: Teigon S. on Aug 22, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details
Access Issue: Closure 8/22/18-10/16/18 7a-5p weekdays Details

Description

This route is located in the crack directly left of Cracker Jack. I originally was going to traverse over to the anchors on the top of Deuces Wild, but when I got up there were old hangers on the needle. They looked as if they were placed a while ago but hardly used. Excellent Clear Creek trad!!!

Per George Bracksieck: sometime in the early-to-mid '70s, I led a partner up the obvious long right-facing dihedral that divides the Deuces Wild area from the Stone Cold Moderate area.

Eds. This is a combination of submissions, combined here to avoid confusion due to duplication.

Location

Start on the shelf at the base of Cracker Jack and follow the obvious crack over the roof. Rap from either the chains at the top or do a fun hand traverse over to the top of Deuces Wild.

Protection

Awesome at the cruxes, but run out the last 30 feet. I used up to a #2 Camalot and only a few nuts. Bring plenty of slings if you're scared of the runouts.

Per George Bracksieck: SR, maybe with large hexes and/or cams.

Per Joseph Josleyn: the bolts at the top are loose.

Photos

Teigon S.
  5.9
Teigon S.  
  5.9
Thanks for the anchors, and I also thought it was 5.6-5.7 but the people I had top rope it thought it was harder. Glad you like the name! Thanks again! Aug 22, 2011
Andrew Mayer
Driggs, ID
Andrew Mayer   Driggs, ID
Climbed this one day last week. Fun little outing but not worth bring a rack up to high wire for IMHO. Also felt more like 5.7. Apr 30, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8-
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8-
I thought this was about 5.7 except for one move at the top near the anchors which I thought was 5.8-. Oct 2, 2013
I climbed this in the '70s, then we walked off. Jan 27, 2016
I think the Capps Clear Creek Canyon guide calls this "Beginners on Crack, 5.7 R *". Aug 26, 2016
Mitchell Hall
Nederland, CO
 
Mitchell Hall   Nederland, CO
 
Yes ^ that book lists it as "Beginners on Crack". You don't need to bring a full rack, just a couple small Aliens and maybe #0.5 to #2. I placed 4 pieces, could have placed 7 or 8. Fun, little crack! Sep 25, 2016
Kat Henry
Tucson, AZ
  5.6
Kat Henry   Tucson, AZ
  5.6
Led this 5/25/18. Fun little climb. Thought it felt more like 5.6. IMO a good lead for a beginning trad leader as long as they can deal with the runout at the end on easy terrain. A #4 definitely eases the pain. May 29, 2018