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Routes in High Wire Crag

5th of July S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ace in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bouncer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bypass S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Contrarian, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cracker Jack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dead End Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deuces Wild S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Everyday Struggle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everything Rhymes with Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full House S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ghetto Activity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghetto Head S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Up Activity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head Up Dirty S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hip at the Lip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Idiot Savant S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Idiot's Roof T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Indirect Savant S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jackpot S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Life After Death S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Machine Gun Funk S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Moderate Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nickels and Dimes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Notorious S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Overpass S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Passing Lane S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
People's Choice S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poker Face S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pony Up S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Power Play T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Road Kill S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Road Rash Roof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road Warrior S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Savage, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slot Machine S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stone Cold Moderate S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Via Comatose Amigo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wild Card S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: Richard Wright and Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder, 2000
Page Views: 2,305 total · 11/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 6, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

26 Opinions

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Jackpot is the route immediately to the right of Via Comatose Amigo and adjacent to the dark gully that splits this sector of the crag. The line heads up in perpetual shadow to take the overhanging pale plate. The entry on to the plate, to give away the beta, is a heel hook. Chase the bolts on the left for 5.11d or run the face for 5.12b. Friends claims 5.12a either way, but I beg to disagree. Straight up is cool, and not 5.12a. Gun for the pocket. This may be height-dependent, but for me the move was not, no way Hose-A, 5.12a. Finish up on several clips after passing a pegmatite band and a small roof (pull it on the left!). The finish to the anchors has a tricky sequence on very thin edges, so watch your balance. Two stars, will keep it honest, for the cool moves, good stone, variety, and continuity.


QD only. This 85 foot route needs about 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. This line needs a 60 m rope for descent, or bring two.


Two stars. And skip the apology. Sep 10, 2001
I agree. No way 12a and yes, height-dependent. "Gun for the pocket." That's a mighty big gun you got there. Ask me, it's 12c/d. Sep 24, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
There is a 10+ way to do this route. Pull onto the overhanging bit, clip the next 2 bolts. Move R for an excellent rest in the wide crack. Then, traverse L past the bolt to the edge of the small face, gain a great series of buckets as you arc back to the pocket. Straight up seemed way harder. May 7, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Sorry Richard, 3 stars seems a bit much. Thought about this for a while. 1.5 stars, maybe. Variety yes, but it probably is in the "Not bad" category. Many routes in CCC are much better. IMHO, in the area, People's Choice at this crag, Peer Pressure and Learning to Crawl at Highlander, The River Mild at the River Wall, Balkan Dirt Driving at Sports Wall, Reefer Madness at Wall of the '90s come to mind. May 8, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Three stars probably is excessive. I get a little drooly when there is a chance to lob an overhead, or even shoulder height, heelhook. Feels like a chance to recruit the sprinter's gluts, something that doesn't happen very much any more. The line does have a lot of bail-out option, but, pick your poison. Straight up is as safe as it gets and it has a nice dyno move to a good jug. Nothing special, just fun. 5.12 but not a real cranker. May 14, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Anecdote - when this line went in I was leading the final little 5.9 section just below the anchors and ripped off one of those thin, friable flakes at the top...took a 30 foot whipper. My belayer figured that it was all over after the mantle and had a lot slack out. Clean fall, however. Some of that thin stuff might still come off, so watch it. May 16, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Yeah, actually I found the climbing just left of the last 3 bolts to be on slightly better rock. You can just reach the bolts from better rock. CCC can be brittle but fun, and the ratings kind to the ego. Cheers. May 17, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
I re-ran Jackpot on 5/17. My retro-fixes hang a bit more with reality - harder than 12a up the middle, but reasonable at soft-12b for the lousy feet setting up the lunge. Lot of variety overall. I can't see going right at all. This would put you a mile from the gear, and you really need to clip high in setting up the middle section, otherwise I think you have to skip two clips. May 18, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Trying to onsight (when not a 12 climber and not knowing the rating), moving R for a great rest after clipping the bolt below the crux is quite natural. It might be different when you didn't envision the line and drill the bolts. From the rest, you are not far from the bolt and you can recharge the batteries. Then traverse 2 moves and get back to the crux. It's like doing an eliminate or calling some move "off route" versus saying it is natural rock and just climbing whatever works. I wuz jus' climbin' an' 'aving fun. No 'arm in it. Cheers. May 18, 2003
I don't want to write what I think about the rating. However, it was a cool route. Last week I broke my finger by unintentially shooting a nail through it. I had to go to the hospital with a bad infection later that night. They performed surgery on my finger to clean it out, splinted it up and told me I would not be climbing for 6-8 weeks. Today exactly one week later without the splint I almost onsighted this with a stupid fall at the last bolt. I thought it was the 10c but soon realized my mistake. 2nd try for the red point; however, I used the no hands rest off to the right. I don't think it really makes it any easier, because it is a bitch to get back to the left, requiring some finger strength. Well, I don't recall any big dynos, but I am also pretty tall. Who cares what the rating is it, just felt good to be back. Oct 21, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Sheet, man, you can climb this with a broken finger??!! Maybe I'll try shooting a nail into my own finger if it helps that much. Oct 21, 2004
David Champion
Centennial, CO
David Champion   Centennial, CO
I'm confused by the description and comments here re: the grade. I onsighted this thing last October, and my send limit is middle 11. I pulled the little roof--right where the less than vertical section becomes overhanging--perhaps a little right of the first bolt above this transition. Then I traversed somewhat left on reachy, hard, but fairly positive, holds. I finished the climb entirely to the left of the bolt line, reaching right to clip each of the remaining bolts.

I see no explicit description of this "variation" here, only a variation to the right which drops the grade to 5.10, and one that goes straight up the bolt line at ~12a. Is the variation I did what you are calling 11d? It felt hard to me (MAYBE low 11), but not 11d. Anyone else do it this way and, if so, how hard do you think it was? Dec 27, 2007
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  • **Warning: The first jug/horn you hit on the left-side arete of the headwall is loosening up, its only a matter of time until this thing blows out***.

Quite a few different ways to climb this thing. Seems like most people clip the first three bolts on the headwall, then traverse left to the arete for solid .11. This is the way I climbed it the first time, and seemed the most natural to me (yes, avoiding hard sections is natural to me lol). You can traverse right at the 3rd bolt on the headwall to gain a no-hands rest, but doing this and then traversing all the way left to the arete seems to use as much energy as just going left right away.

That being said, it seems like the intended line is straight up the middle of this bitch. The feet aren't as bad as i thought they would be (working it on toprope), but it was hard to get them into place. Once set up for the throw, the move to the jug wasn't that bad, but I'm sure being 6' is beneficial. Both ways are fun and challenging, with clean fall potential (until you get above the crux headwall, watch the ledges)

A 60m will get you to the ground, but just barely, and depending on which pile of rocks your standing on. Watch your ends. Mar 22, 2008
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
This is a great line up a nice headwall. Either way is legit, straight up felt way hard for 12b I think at least 12c. If you cut left, it's mid-5.11. Not sure were the 5.10 rating is coming from, maybe Leo is a Gunks or Eldo climber. Even so, mid-11 is on par with other routes in Clear Creek. May 11, 2013
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
This line definitely eases up the farther left you trend, but 5.10? Felt like solid 11 to me. Definitely not less than 11b IMO. Staying direct looked for like hard 12ish. Didn't try way right like Leo mentioned.

Fun line on big holds. Top headwall was kind of wacky. Nov 19, 2013
Derek Young
Denver, CO
Derek Young   Denver, CO
My opinion for easier or harder lines. Choose your own destiny. Both have clean falls up top. Either way - I liked it and allows you to do something on packed Highwire/Wall of Justice days.
-EASIER- Felt off route, but it was the path of least resistance. Start up the gully and/or face. 1st vertical section crux: if you're tired, surf right of the bolt above your head on the horizontal holds to the gray slab (right of the dihedral/gap) and sit down, check out the view, and relax. Once you're good, surf all the way back left, past the bolt above your head, to the arĂȘte, and ascend to the angling triangular block. 2nd triangular block crux: stay left at the block to the 10minus route holds or surf right past the block for good holds to get back and on top of it. Ending: share some holds of the 10minus then cruise/traverse right. You are no more than 2 meters left or right of the bolt line.

-HARDER - Felt on route, direct line. Start up the face. 1st vertical section crux: use the two crimp sidepulls and the sharp-notched, undercling combination directly below the bolt to reach the hueco and jug rail (no sitting down for tea on gray slab out right of dihedral/gap and no touchy the arĂȘte of the 10minus out left). Then straight into the 2nd triangular block crux: mantel the angling triangular block. Continue up the bolt line, then angle right to gain the chains. Apr 5, 2015

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