Type: Sport
FA: Richard Wright and Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder, 2000
Page Views: 3,443 total · 12/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 6, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

46 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Jackpot is the route immediately to the right of Via Comatose Amigo and adjacent to the dark gully that splits this sector of the crag. The line heads up in perpetual shadow to take the overhanging pale plate. The entry on to the plate, to give away the beta, is a heel hook. Chase the bolts on the left for 5.11d or run the face for 5.12b. Friends claims 5.12a either way, but I beg to disagree. Straight up is cool, and not 5.12a. Gun for the pocket. This may be height-dependent, but for me the move was not, no way Hose-A, 5.12a. Finish up on several clips after passing a pegmatite band and a small roof (pull it on the left!). The finish to the anchors has a tricky sequence on very thin edges, so watch your balance. Two stars, will keep it honest, for the cool moves, good stone, variety, and continuity.

Protection Suggest change

QD only. This 85 foot route needs about 10 (14?) draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. This line needs a 60 m rope for descent, or bring two.