Type: Sport
FA: RWright, 2000
Page Views: 215 total · 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Feb 7, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details
Access Issue: Closure 8/22/18-10/16/18 7a-5p weekdays Details

Description

Full House is a variation start to Slot Machine. Watch the nasty block at the base. One day, when the canyon is closed down, we may get a chance to cut it loose. FA by RMW. FFA by Greg Purnell in June 2000. Lots of open hand power in the opening.

Protection

Ten draws and a rope. Rap back via anchors on Slot Machine.

Photos

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To me the obvious way to do this route is more like 11c/d, no where near the given 12b/c which seems contrived.

Don't read if you don't want the beta: From the horn on the right below the roof, reach up high and left w/ the left hand to the crips above the corner on your left. Match right heel to right hand, heel hook until both hands are higher. This avoids the open hand moves above the first overhang. Seemed very obvious to not utilize this hold. Could I be off route? Hard to argue since you're on a variant of a route anyway! Jan 31, 2003
Dale Haas and I replaced the first bolt (cold shut hanger) on this route with a SS Powers Power-Bolt (AKA 5-piece) and SS Fixe hanger.

Also, we added quicklinks and 3 links of 3/8" chain to each anchor bolt at the start of the route to help with the rappel.

The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA-www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Jun 24, 2015