Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Alan Nelson, 1997
Page Views: 9,355 total · 33/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Road Rash Roof looks a bit intimidating from the ground (and it looks intimidating from just underneath the roof as well), but the climbing is well protected and very secure. Begin on a sparsely protected slab to the right of the dark gully with Jackpot on its left side. Rolofson's guide calls the slab 5.9, but don't believe it. A tricky move crosses a small prow below the roof, and this is certainly a 5.10 section. To launch the roof, turn out and look straight away from the crag. Jugs, to a heel hook, to a jam, to a crimp along with some big juice will get you over this grunt, and the crux is pulling over the roof on the crimp. Gotta love Alan for that move! If you bring the muscle, this route is a kick; if you are feeling soft, pick a face route. Three stars for good continuity, well-protected, and the chance to launch through a big roof.

Protection Suggest change

QDs only and some slings for below the roof. This route has an 85 feet rap for close to 100 feet of climbing. It makes a very poor toprope problem, and the best ascent is to climb both partners to the top and rap with a 60m rope.

Per Conor Jonson: there are Mussy hooks at the anchor, and a permadraw at the lip makes for easy cleaning! 

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