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Road Rash Roof
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.8 from 130
votes
Routes in High Wire Crag
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5th of July S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ace in the Hole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bouncer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bypass S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Contrarian, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cracker Jack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dead End Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deuces Wild S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Everything Rhymes with Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Full House S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Jackpot S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Moderate Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nickels and Dimes S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Overpass S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Passing Lane S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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People's Choice S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Poker Face S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pony Up S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Road Kill S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Road Rash Roof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Road Warrior S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Savage, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Slot Machine S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stone Cold Moderate S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Via Comatose Amigo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Wild Card S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Alan Nelson, 1997 |
| Page Views: | 9,404 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on May 30, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
Road Rash Roof looks a bit intimidating from the ground (and it looks intimidating from just underneath the roof as well), but the climbing is well protected and very secure. Begin on a sparsely protected slab to the right of the dark gully with Jackpot on its left side. Rolofson's guide calls the slab 5.9, but don't believe it. A tricky move crosses a small prow below the roof, and this is certainly a 5.10 section. To launch the roof, turn out and look straight away from the crag. Jugs, to a heel hook, to a jam, to a crimp along with some big juice will get you over this grunt, and the crux is pulling over the roof on the crimp. Gotta love Alan for that move! If you bring the muscle, this route is a kick; if you are feeling soft, pick a face route. Three stars for good continuity, well-protected, and the chance to launch through a big roof.
Protection
QDs only and some slings for below the roof. This route has an 85 feet rap for close to 100 feet of climbing. It makes a very poor toprope problem, and the best ascent is to climb both partners to the top and rap with a 60m rope.
Per Conor Jonson: there are Mussy hooks at the anchor, and a permadraw at the lip makes for easy cleaning!
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