Type: Sport, 4 pitches Fixed Hardware (26)
FA: Richard Wright and Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder, Fall 1997
Page Views: 30,180 total · 136/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Feb 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details
Access Issue: Closure 8/22/18-10/16/18 7a-5p weekdays Details

Description

A popular climb, and deservedly so. This route starts just after the trail meets up with the rock. Rolofson's guide suggests that it is the far right climb. However, a new bolted line is the far right one (Nickels and Dimes). Just to the left is Road Kill.

Pitch 1: Start up and follow a great, super-positive flake and then over a hump. Hope you wore your edging shoes, cause the crux is blank as hell for hands. Belay at the end of the right-sloping big ramp. 6 bolts.

Pitch 2: Scramble up the easy 5.5 section. You can and probably should link up the first two pitches (we did). Belay at the base of the dihedral. 6 bolts.

Pitch 3. Waste that sucker! This is the most fun I had in a while. Overhanging, steep dihedral with lots of stemming moves and good places to clip. The crux comes out after exiting the dihedral - swing right, up, clip, and finish to the bolts. 8 bolts.

Pitch 4 (optional): Go left and clip 2 more bolts, 5.5 s. 210 ft rap.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, 50'. 6 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, 100'. 8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, 170'. With a 60m rope, you can JUST reach the 1 belay ledge, which is on top of a nice ramp where you can easily downclimb to the right.

Photos